Bike Collectives Wiki - User contributions [en]

Teaching Resources

2021-06-09T00:24:33Z

Shiseiji: Added in broad examples of training programs to consider what is the goal of the instruction when reviewing programs.

Many community bicycle collective do some kind of '''teaching''', so if your organization is thinking of starting up a youth program, an "[[Earn-a-Bike]]" program, training new volunteers, or some other instructional program, you don't need to re-invent the wheel. As you read through the material, you will see broad training philosophies:
* Crawl | Walk | Run - Good for building a foundation of basic skills used to train mechanics in many fields. Advanced skills are often developed through hands on application with mentorship from experienced mechanics.
** Learn how to remove wheels from an actual bicycle, not overhaul a hub on a wheel already off a bike.
** Learn how to properly clock a tire, remove the tire, inspect the tire, repair the tube, and reassemble. Not immersion test removed tubes.
* Component Specific in random order - Good for assembly line recycling programs .
** Rapidly develops a specific skill

==Teacher Training Manuals==
Browse through these various manuals to see which curriculum works best for you:

===Earn-A-Bike Programs===
* [[Community Cycles Youth Earn-A-Bike Curriculum|Wiki version of Youth Earn-A-Bike Curriculum]] (Wiki) by [[Community Cycles]]
**[[:File:Community Cycles Youth Earn A Bike Curriculum .pdf|Youth Earn-A-Bike Curriculum]] (PDF) by Community Cycles
**[[:File:Manual en espanol.pdf|"Bicicletas para Jóvenes" Plan de Estudios]] (PDF - Español) por Community Cycles
* [[SLCBC Earn-a-Bike Curriculum|Earn-a-Bike Curriculum]] (Wiki) by [[SLCBC]]
* [[:File:Bikes not bombs-EAB instructor manual.pdf|Instructor's Manual for the Earn-A-Bike Program]] (PDF) by [[Bikes Not Bombs]]
** [[Bikes Not Bombs Earn-A-Bike Instructor Training Manual|Earn-A-Bike Instructor Training Manual]] (Wiki - incomplete) by Bikes Not Bombs
* [[:File:NBW Earn-a-bike Activity Book.pdf|Earn-a-bike Activity Book]] (PDF) by [[Neighborhood Bike Works]]

===Other Manuals===
* [[:File:Overton Babiak TA-Tools for Life.pdf|Tools For Life: A Start-up Guide for Youth Recycling and Bicycling Programs]] (PDF) by George Roman Babiak, Karen Overton and Transportation Alternatives
* [http://www.recycleabicycle.org/sites/default/files/onerevolution.pdf One Revolution at a Time: A Guide to Starting and Running Youth Bike Ride Clubs] (PDF) by Karen Overton, Audrey Warren and [[Recycle-A-Bicycle]]
* [[English Language Immersion Program]] (Wiki - incomplete) by Ignacio Rivera de Rosales with [[BICAS]]

===Specific topics for instructors===
*[[Picking Bikes and Bike Anatomy]]
*[[Bearing Systems Teacher Training]]
*[[Tires and Tubes Teacher Training]]

== Teaching Aids ==

Reusable Repair Checklist [[File:Community-cycles-repair-checklist.pdf]]

[[Illustrations and Graphics]] are great visual aids for any class or program and can make simply hanging around a community shop a learning experience.

[[Category:Teaching Resources| Teaching Resources]]

==Maintenance Class Syllabuses==

*[[VeloCity Basic Class (draft)]]

Main Page

2021-06-08T23:56:58Z

Shiseiji:

==Bike Collective Network==

The mission of the [http://www.bikecollectives.org/ Bike Collective Network] is to strengthen and encourage communication and resource sharing between existing and future community bike shops. Collectively we can improve a bigger wheel as opposed to re-inventing smaller ones.

Join over 900 like minded individuals from over [[Community Bicycle Organizations|500 similar organizations]] across the world on [http://lists.bikecollectives.org/listinfo.cgi/thethinktank-bikecollectives.org The Think Tank] email list.

This wiki is here to help bike collectives collaborate and share ideas. Whether you are an [[advocate]], [[mechanic]], or just someone who likes to ride -- anyone can freely edit the content of this site. A history of all changes ensures that nothing is lost.

[[Contribute to this Wiki|See FAQ about contributing to this wiki]].

==Lists of Organizations==

* List of [[Community Bicycle Organizations]]
* List of [[:Category:International Bicycle Aid Organizations|International Bicycle Aid Organizations]]

==Starter Kits==

Just starting out? Looking to expand? Before you do anything crazy, start planning! Set clear goals and the path to meeting those goals will also become clear. Follow hundreds of similar organizations by using and contributing to these free online resources...

# [[Organizational Models]]
# [[Legal Filings]]
# [[Insurance]]
# [[Accounting]]
# [[Fundraising]]
# [[Publicity]]
#*[[FREE PICKLE Day]]
# [[Strategic Planning]]
# Over 300 examples of [[Community Bicycle Organizations]] and [[:Category:International Bicycle Aid Organizations|International Bicycle Aid Organizations]].
# [[Teaching Resources]]
# Common Activities:
#*[[Community Bike Shop]]: Providing bicycle tools, parts, used bikes and mechanical expertise to the public.
#* [[Earn-a-Bike]]: Programs that allow people to literally earn a bike through learning or volunteer work, sometimes focused exclusively on youth.
#* [[Valet Bike Parking]]: Providing corralled areas where volunteers watch your bike while you enjoy an event.
#* Safety Education: The [[League of American Bicyclists]] has a nicely pre-packaged program called [[Smart Cycling]] which includes a [[Bike Rodeo Kit]].
#* Mechanical Training: [[Park Tool]] has a nicely pre-packaged program called the [[Park Tool School]]. See below for suggested [[Maintenance_Classes]].
#* [[Helmet]] Distribution
#* [[Bicycle Art]]: Following [[Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle]] old bikes and parts are turned into works of art.
#* [[Bicycle Advocacy]]: Many [[Community Bicycle Organizations]] concentrate on the grass roots elements of educating and getting people on bikes. However some organizations, or at least some of their members, are also involved in traditional [[bicycle advocacy]].
#* [[Women and Trans Programs|Women's Only Night]]: Encouraging more women and transgender people to get involved and learn in a comfortable space without men.
#* [[Commercial Bike Racks]]: Providing [[outdoor bike racks]] and installation local businesses and cities.
# Organization Building Resources:
#*[[Alliance for Walking and Biking]] has contributed to this wiki, and also has an incredibly valuable [http://www.peoplepoweredmovement.org/site/index.php/members/ Resource Library] for members.

=== Community Bike Shop ===

Providing bicycle tools, parts, used bikes and mechanical expertise to the public.

# Bike and Part [[Donations]]: acquisition, sorting and [[Bike and Part Sales|re-sale]]. [[Shop Manual]].
# [[Shop Location]]
# [[Staffing]]: paid, volunteer or both.
# [[Shop Organization]]
# [[Shop Recycling]]
# [[Volunteer Handbook]]
# [[Layout]]
# [[Rules]]
# [[Hours]]
# [[Capital Improvement Plans]]
# [[Proper Bike Fit]]
# [[Maintenance Classes]]
# [[Software]]

=== [[Earn-a-Bike]] ===

Programs that allow people to literally earn a bike through learning or volunteer work, sometimes focused exclusively on youth.

* Examples:
**[http://bikesnotbombs.org/resources/earn-a-bike-training-manual Earn-A-Bike Training Manual] by [[Bikes Not Bombs]]
** [http://www.recycleabicycle.org/sites/default/files/onerevolution.pdf One Revolution at a Time] by [[Recycle-a-Bicycle]]
** [http://www.recycleabicycle.org/sites/default/files/transportation_alternatives__tools_for_life__a_start-up_guide_for_youth_recycling_and_bicycling_programs.pdf Tools for Life] by [[Recycle-a-Bicycle]]
** [[Community Cycles Youth Earn-A-Bike Curriculum]]
* [[Teaching Methods]]

==Conferences/Gatherings==
* [[Bike!Bike!]] is an annual international conference of nonprofit bike collectives and other bicycle projects.
*[[Youth Bike Summit]] is organized by [[Recycle-a-Bicycle]] in New York City every year.

===Past Conferences===

* Bike!Bike! Northeast in Toronto, ON Canada - May 17-20, 2019
* Bike!Bike! in Los Angeles, CA USA - September 27-30, 2018
* Bike!Bike! Southeast in Columbia, SC USA - March 15-18, 2018
* Bike!Bike! in Winnipeg, MB Canada - August 24-27, 2017
* Bike!Bike! Southeast in Alexandria, VA USA - March 16-19, 2017
* Bike!Bike! in Detroit, MI USA - September 28-October 2, 2016
* Bike!BIke! in Guadalajara, Mexico - October 1-4, 2015
* Bike!Bike! in Columbus, OH USA - August 28-31, 2014
* Bike!Bike! Southeast in Tallahassee, FL USA - March 13-17, 2014
* Bike!Bike! in New Orleans, LA USA - October 2-6, 2013
* Bike!Bike! in Vancouver, BC Canada - June 21-24 , 2012
* [[BikeBike_Southeast_2012|Bike!Bike! Southeast 2012]] is in Birmingham, Alabama, March 23-25.
* [[Bike!Bike!_2011|Bike!Bike! in San Marcos, Tx USA - June 2011]]
* BiciBici! in Davis CA - April 2011
* [[Bike!Bike!_2010|Bike!Bike! in Toronto, Ontario August 2010]]
* Bike!Bike! in San Francisco, CA - Autumn 2008
* Bike!Bike 2005 is referenced [[Bicycle Organization Organization Project|here]].

* [https://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Bike!Bike! More About Bike!Bike! Events]
* [https://en.bikebike.org/conferences/ Previous Bike!Bike! Events with Details]

Tires and Tubes Teacher Training

2017-01-31T21:15:27Z

Shiseiji: /* Tire and Tube Removal */

'''Tires and Tubes—teaching youth to fix a flat'''
=Objectives=
* EaB instructors will be able to identify the parts attached to the wheel of a bike and the tools and supplies needed for tube repair
* EaB instructors will be able to remove and install wheels with bolts or quick release
* EaB instructors will repair a flat tire
* EaB instructors will consider possible Academic content of this lesson:
* EaB instructors will be prepared for the common problems that students have with tire and tube repair
* Students will be able to recognize the pressure measurement on the tire and articulate the difference between pressure (pounds per square inch) and weight (pounds)

=Materials=

*Diagram that includes parts of wheel
*Tire levers Most are typically plastic these days. Advantages are that the plastic levers are less likely to damage a tube or tire bead. Metal levers are stronger and longer lasting. They must be used with more care. NBW uses Pedros levers made or recycled materials. Some plastic levers also have the advantage of having a scraper area that can be used to rough up the tube
*Glue. Bulk glue in a can is best. Innovations brand is the most economical that NBW has used in the past. There is not difference in glue quality between brands in our experience. Buy the cheapest. (This does not apply to patches)
*Patches. NBW does not recommend using commercially available patch kits in class. These materials are over 10 times as expensive as buying in bulk. Rema Tip Top are the best bulk patches available. They are good quality and reasonable price. Cheaper Taiwan or China brands tend to be more flexible and more difficult to use. Innovations patches are good. If possible get some with a plastic sheet over the top of the patch, not paper. The paper-like sheeting that some brands use is hard to take off if you have more than one hole close together and need to overlap patches. (Bike shops never use patches, so they will not necessarily give good advice about this)
*Wrenches for non-quick release type wheels that use axle nuts
*Floor pump and gauge
*Quiz, if appropriate for your class

Ideally, bikes with tires that need to be fixed. If you have a fleet of bikes and have pumped tires up when donations are delivered
If not available, bikes that can be used for wheel removal and restoration drill, plus tubes to fix separately. In the worst case scenario, you can always pucture tubes with a pin

=Activities=
==Fixing a flat:==

Lead the teachers through the activity of repairing a flat tire.

=== Mechanical Pre-Evaluation ===

How many times have NBW (co-op)staff offered to help youth with a flat because it was such a simple job only to become mired in complexity because of damaged axles? Most bike manuals will not go into the murky territory of fixing bikes that are constantly abused by pre-teens riding two (or more) on a bike. Our experience is that there are many ways to damage the axles of a bike that will make it hard to get the wheel back on. If possible check this out before offering to help a youth with a flat tire. If you confidently take the wheel off only to find that it is impossible to reinstall the wheel the bike club might instantly go from being a Good Samaritan to a bad guy… So, if working on a youth’s bike do the following inspection first:

* Are the axle nuts close to being equilateral hexagons? If they have been rounded by the application of vise grips, pliers of wrenches of the wrong size, you may not be able to get them back on tightly. Only work on the bike if you have a selection of axle nuts so that you can use to replace the damaged item
* Are the screw threads of the axle damaged? If the threads look anything other than even and similar all along the axle then it could be hard or impossible to get the nut back on if you take it off.
* Does the bike have axle pegs (pogos)? If so, the axle is probably bent unless it is a really high quality bike. Look at the bike from the front or back. Does the axle seem to describe a straight line, or does it droop at the ends, as if making a sad face because it has been ridden by more than one person at a time… Also, the threads are more likely to be damaged. NBW (co-op) will often refuse to allow youth to install pegs on their bikes in the shop. We can’t stop them doing it at home, but we can make sure that the bike leaves the shop in as safe a configuration as possible
* If the axle is especially bent, is it broken? If you think the axle could be broken, pull the dropouts apart. If they move, then the wheel is being held on only by the strength of the frame pressing in on the hub. The bike should not be ridden until a new axle is installed (at a minimum-a wheel may be necessary).
* Are the dropouts in good condition? Often when youth give their friends a ride on their axle pegs, the pegs bend the axles and the dropouts. You can see this by looking along the sides of the dropout. Is it flat, or is it uneven? If it is uneven, you may have to spend some time with a large pair of channel locks and/or a large adjustable wrench and a hammer—and that’s only if the frame is steel. If it is aluminum, you could be totally out of luck since frames of that metal are less repairable.

===Quick Vocabulary Lesson===

* Tire
- Sidewall
- Tread
- bead
* Tube
- Valve stem; Schrader (fat like a mug) or Presta (thin like a wine glass)

Teachers should follow the steps in the lesson plan, paying special attention to the following points:

===Wheel Assembly Removal===

* Release brake quick release, if any. See figure to the left. (Figure 2.1)

* Release wheel quick release by pulling quick release lever outward OR loosen both axle nuts outside of dropouts.

* Make sure that youth keep nuts on axles whenever possible—the natural tendency is to loose them.

* Guide the wheel through the brake pads and out the fork ends/dropouts.

--- Make sure that students do not force the tire through the brake pads and loosen or damage the pads. If the tire won’t fit, it should be further deflated. ---

===Tire and Tube Removal===

* Remove Tire and Tube from Rim –
- Check the "clocking" of the valve stem to the tire. Industry standard is to put the manufacturer's name at the valve stem. Note what it is.
- Common errors with this are that youth will start the process next to the valve. Start opposite the valve.
- Tires can be tightly fitted to the rim. Use tire levers to tire bead up and over rim sidewall.
**** Do not use screwdriver, knife, or other sharp object, which may damage tire or tube. ****

* If you do not have a flat tire and you want to change your tire, deflate tire completely before removing from rim by pressing down on valve pin.

* Lay wheel flat on lap or on work bench.
- Check the bead is broken from the rim and on many tires, that the bead by the valve stem is pushed all the way to the bottom of the rim.You may need to use the heel of your hand to push on the sidewall all the way around on both sides.
- Engage one tire lever (the ‘spoon’ side) under bead (edge wire) of tire opposite the valve stem and engage the hooked end onto a spoke.
- Engage second tire lever one hand’s width or five spokes away from first lever. The bead should be loosened.
'''Students will often want to force the tire lever around the rim, a trick which can be gotten away with in the case of loosly fitting tires, but will damage tire, tube, lever or hands on occasion!.'''
- Starting opposite the valve, pull the second bead from the rim by pulling up on the tire to get the bead over the rim and then pulling it down. Use the heel of your hand.
- Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.

==Repairing inner tube==
Locate hole marked during inspection.
Using sandpaper or the scraper on the side of a plastic tire lever, lightly sand an area around the hole that is slightly larger than patch size. The tube is coated with a substance that allows it to be removed from the mould when it is manufactured. This substance prevents patches from sticking and must be removed.

Apply a thin coat of glue and spread evenly around the sanded area using a clean finger or the back of the patch. '''Do not ‘glop’ on the glue.''' We tell students to thinly coat a large area.

Allow glue to dry. This make take a few minutes. This is a good time to inspect the tire for damage. If you want to test the glue, only test the perimeter area not where the patch will contact. Students will almost always want to apply the patch too soon. '''Hand out patches only when glue is dry'''
Peel patch from patch backing. '''Handle the patch only by the edges.'''
Center patch over the hole and lay patch on tube pressing down on patch, especially around the edges. Continue to apply pressure to patch for several minutes.

Rim strip: the wheel rim is made with holes between the rim sidewalls for spoke nipples. A rim strip covers the holes or nipples and protects the inner tube from sharp edges in the base of the rim and from spoke ends and nipples that may puncture the tube otherwise. The rim strip can be made out of fabric, rubber or plastic, and should be wide enough to cover the bottom of the rim, but not too wide that it interferes with the seating of the tire bead. Inspect the rim strip whenever changing a tire or inner tube. Look for tears and rips, and make sure that rim strip is centered over the spoke nipples.

Reinstall tube in tire and remount tire on wheel.
Note any directional arrow/directional tread on tire sidewall. As far as NBW is concerned the jury is out as to whether this makes any difference, but people expect the arrow to be pointing in the direction that the wheel rotates.

Inflate tube enough to give it shape and reinstall tube in tire with valve next to air pressure recommendations written on tire sidewall.

Lean rim vertically against your legs with valve hole facing up, or lay flat in lap.
Lower tire and valve into rim valve hole and align valve so it is pointing straight toward hub. Make sure it is not crooked as this can lead to an un-repairable flat tire.
Install one bead at a time – begin with bead next to your legs/closest to you.
Work the bead onto rim with hands – avoid using tire levers even if bead is tight to get back on since using tire levers for this purpose will pinch the tube and give you another flat. Work tube over rim sidewall and into rim cavity.
Install second bead onto rim in same fashion as above starting at the valve. Roll tire bead into rim with the heel of your hand if your thumbs are not strong enough. Resist the temptation to use levers. It is better to take some time with this step than punture the tube with a tire lever and have to do the whole job again.

Inspect both sides of tire for bead seating and for any sign the inner tube is sticking out. Reseat if necessary. The valve is attached to the inner tube with a thick piece of rubber. Make sure that this thicker piece of rubber is inside the tire, and not jammed between the beads of the tire and the rim.

Inflate to low pressure and inspect bead again on both sides. Look for molding line on both sides above bead – this line should run consistently above rim.

Inflate to full pressure (according to the sidewall specifications) and double check both beads all the way around the rim same as above.

==Reinstalling Wheels on Bike==

===Front Wheel===
Many people find it easier to install a front wheel when the bike is on the ground versus in a stand, so that the axle will be fully in the dropouts. The quick release skewer must be fully tight against the dropouts, or the wheel may become loose or even fall out while you are riding.
If it is a bolt-on wheel, check that the axle nuts are loose enough for the axle to fit into drop outs. If quick release, check that the quick release skewer is in its “open” position (perpendicular to the fork blade and parallel to the ground).
Check that the brake caliper’s quick release mechanism is open.
Place front wheel (front axle) in dropouts. If quick release, make sure the lever is on the left side of the fork (from a rider’s perspective).
Pull wheel fully into dropouts. For non-quick release wheels (wheels with axle nuts), the washers go on the outside of the dropouts. There may be some washers with hooks on them designed to stop the wheel from falling out of the dropouts if the nuts are not fully tightened. If everything has been left on the axle in the same order and orientation in which it was found, you will be OK.

For bolt on axles, tighten axle nuts down very tightly (both clockwise), while making sure that the wheel remains centered in the fork. '''You should tighten one side a bit, then the other a bit, until both sides are tight.''' Do not tighten one side all the way while the other side is loose—this can cause the wheel to become crooked in the fork. Close brake quick release mechanism.

For quick release wheels, line up quick release lever to that it will close just in front of left fork blade so it can fully close.
Adjust closing tension of the skewer by holding the lever steady and turning the adjusting nut clockwise until its finger snug against right drop-out. Push in lever – the lever should meet resistance half way through its swing towards the drop-out. You should need to hold on to the fork blade for leverage to close the lever all the way, and the lever should leave a mark on the palm of your hand. If not, then open and tighten the adjusting nut a bit more, and try again.

Make sure wheel is centered in fork. If necessary, adjust wheel centering by either opening the skewer and moving wheel left or right until it looks centered (go by the rim not by the tire), or by loosening axle nuts and moving wheel until it looks centered. To secure wheel, close quick release skewer, or retighten axle nuts. Close brake quick release mechanism.
pin wheel and check brake pad alignment to rim. If brake pads are not centered to wheel, you will have to adjust the brakes… another section.

===Rear Wheel===
;Bike with gears

Your aim here is to center the wheel in the bike frame and tighten the wheel onto the bike. Check that the quick release skewer and brake quick release mechanism are in the open position; check to see that rear derailleur is in outermost position.
Pull back rear derailleur to open chain and place freewheel sprockets between the top and bottom sections of the chain. If in doubt about how the chain is supposed to wrap around the sprockets of the rear wheel, looking at another bike is often helpful.
Guide wheel in between brake pads and rest chain on smallest sprocket.
Guide axle up into the dropouts and pull back or up on wheel, depending on the style of dropouts (horizontal or vertical) and hold wheel centered in rear triangle (center by the rim, not the tire).
Orient quick release lever so that it will close between the chain stay and the seat stay on the non-drive side of the bike.
Close skewer with same force as described for front wheel
Close brake quick release mechanism (or tighten axle nuts clockwise) and check brake pad alignment to rim by spinning rear wheel. If brake pads are not centered to wheel see the lesson on brakes!

;One speed bike

This is harder than the job with gears, because reinstalling the wheels requires three things to be done: Centering the wheel, tightening the axlenuts and tensioning the chain. On bikes with gears the derailleur takes is a silent partner in the wheel installation process. It takes up the slack in the chain for you.

Loop the chain to the outside of the right rear dropout, then place the axle in the dropout slot. Pick up the chain and place it over the rear sprocket. If the wheel has coaster brakes (foot brakes) attach the coaster brake strap to the brake arm on that extends from the left side of the rear hub. A bolt will go through one side of the strap, through the arm and then through the other side of the strap. Tighten the nut and bolt so they will not fall off, but not fully. You will need to be able to move the hub around as you tension the frame. Make sure the chain is correctly seated on the front sprocket and pull the wheel back with one hand, while tightening one axlenut with the other. Look at where the wheel is sitting between the frame and make sure it looks like it is in the middle. Check that there is only about 10mm (3/8”) of play in the chain. As with the derailleur bike, don’t tighten the nut all the way. Do one side a bit and then the other, ending up with both sides as tight as you can go. If the bike is a coaster brake bike, then fully tighten the coaster brake strap bolt. Here’s another point about bikes that are not good quality or have been treated roughly: the chainring (front sprocket) will often be bent. This means that on a one-speed bike the chain will tighten and loosen as the sprocket goes around. In cases like this you will have to set the chain tension so it is never too loose or too tight by sliding the wheel back and forth in the dropouts and testing for the best chain tension. If this is not possible, you might have to straighten or replace the chainring.

=Evaluation=

Have teachers try out the quiz for the youth

=Wrap up:=

Take questions and comments

[[Category:Teaching Resources]]

Tires and Tubes Teacher Training

2017-01-31T17:26:41Z

Shiseiji: /* Quick Vocabulary Lesson */

'''Tires and Tubes—teaching youth to fix a flat'''
=Objectives=
* EaB instructors will be able to identify the parts attached to the wheel of a bike and the tools and supplies needed for tube repair
* EaB instructors will be able to remove and install wheels with bolts or quick release
* EaB instructors will repair a flat tire
* EaB instructors will consider possible Academic content of this lesson:
* EaB instructors will be prepared for the common problems that students have with tire and tube repair
* Students will be able to recognize the pressure measurement on the tire and articulate the difference between pressure (pounds per square inch) and weight (pounds)

=Materials=

*Diagram that includes parts of wheel
*Tire levers Most are typically plastic these days. Advantages are that the plastic levers are less likely to damage a tube or tire bead. Metal levers are stronger and longer lasting. They must be used with more care. NBW uses Pedros levers made or recycled materials. Some plastic levers also have the advantage of having a scraper area that can be used to rough up the tube
*Glue. Bulk glue in a can is best. Innovations brand is the most economical that NBW has used in the past. There is not difference in glue quality between brands in our experience. Buy the cheapest. (This does not apply to patches)
*Patches. NBW does not recommend using commercially available patch kits in class. These materials are over 10 times as expensive as buying in bulk. Rema Tip Top are the best bulk patches available. They are good quality and reasonable price. Cheaper Taiwan or China brands tend to be more flexible and more difficult to use. Innovations patches are good. If possible get some with a plastic sheet over the top of the patch, not paper. The paper-like sheeting that some brands use is hard to take off if you have more than one hole close together and need to overlap patches. (Bike shops never use patches, so they will not necessarily give good advice about this)
*Wrenches for non-quick release type wheels that use axle nuts
*Floor pump and gauge
*Quiz, if appropriate for your class

Ideally, bikes with tires that need to be fixed. If you have a fleet of bikes and have pumped tires up when donations are delivered
If not available, bikes that can be used for wheel removal and restoration drill, plus tubes to fix separately. In the worst case scenario, you can always pucture tubes with a pin

=Activities=
==Fixing a flat:==

Lead the teachers through the activity of repairing a flat tire.

=== Mechanical Pre-Evaluation ===

How many times have NBW (co-op)staff offered to help youth with a flat because it was such a simple job only to become mired in complexity because of damaged axles? Most bike manuals will not go into the murky territory of fixing bikes that are constantly abused by pre-teens riding two (or more) on a bike. Our experience is that there are many ways to damage the axles of a bike that will make it hard to get the wheel back on. If possible check this out before offering to help a youth with a flat tire. If you confidently take the wheel off only to find that it is impossible to reinstall the wheel the bike club might instantly go from being a Good Samaritan to a bad guy… So, if working on a youth’s bike do the following inspection first:

* Are the axle nuts close to being equilateral hexagons? If they have been rounded by the application of vise grips, pliers of wrenches of the wrong size, you may not be able to get them back on tightly. Only work on the bike if you have a selection of axle nuts so that you can use to replace the damaged item
* Are the screw threads of the axle damaged? If the threads look anything other than even and similar all along the axle then it could be hard or impossible to get the nut back on if you take it off.
* Does the bike have axle pegs (pogos)? If so, the axle is probably bent unless it is a really high quality bike. Look at the bike from the front or back. Does the axle seem to describe a straight line, or does it droop at the ends, as if making a sad face because it has been ridden by more than one person at a time… Also, the threads are more likely to be damaged. NBW (co-op) will often refuse to allow youth to install pegs on their bikes in the shop. We can’t stop them doing it at home, but we can make sure that the bike leaves the shop in as safe a configuration as possible
* If the axle is especially bent, is it broken? If you think the axle could be broken, pull the dropouts apart. If they move, then the wheel is being held on only by the strength of the frame pressing in on the hub. The bike should not be ridden until a new axle is installed (at a minimum-a wheel may be necessary).
* Are the dropouts in good condition? Often when youth give their friends a ride on their axle pegs, the pegs bend the axles and the dropouts. You can see this by looking along the sides of the dropout. Is it flat, or is it uneven? If it is uneven, you may have to spend some time with a large pair of channel locks and/or a large adjustable wrench and a hammer—and that’s only if the frame is steel. If it is aluminum, you could be totally out of luck since frames of that metal are less repairable.

===Quick Vocabulary Lesson===

* Tire
- Sidewall
- Tread
- bead
* Tube
- Valve stem; Schrader (fat like a mug) or Presta (thin like a wine glass)

Teachers should follow the steps in the lesson plan, paying special attention to the following points:

===Wheel Assembly Removal===

* Release brake quick release, if any. See figure to the left. (Figure 2.1)

* Release wheel quick release by pulling quick release lever outward OR loosen both axle nuts outside of dropouts.

* Make sure that youth keep nuts on axles whenever possible—the natural tendency is to loose them.

* Guide the wheel through the brake pads and out the fork ends/dropouts.

--- Make sure that students do not force the tire through the brake pads and loosen or damage the pads. If the tire won’t fit, it should be further deflated. ---

===Tire and Tube Removal===

* Remove Tire and Tube from Rim –
- Check the "clocking" of the valve stem to the tire. Industry standard is to put the manufacturer's name at the valve stem. Note what it is.
- Common errors with this are that youth will start the process next to the valve. Start opposite the valve.
- Tires can be tightly fitted to the rim. Use tire levers to tire bead up and over rim sidewall.
**** Do not use screwdriver, knife, or other sharp object, which may damage tire or tube. ****

* If you do not have a flat tire and you want to change your tire, deflate tire completely before removing from rim by pressing down on valve pin.

* Lay wheel flat on lap or on work bench.
- Check the bead is broken from the rim and on many tires, that the bead by the valve stem is pushed all the way to the bottom of
the rim.You may need to use the heel of your hand to push on the sidewall all the way around on both sides.
- Engage one tire lever (the ‘spoon’ side) under bead (edge wire) of tire opposite the valve stem and engage the hooked end onto a spoke.
- Engage second tire lever one hand’s width or five spokes away from first lever. The bead should be loosened.
'''Students will often want to force the tire lever around the rim, a trick which can be gotten away with in the case of loosly fitting tires, but will damage tire, tube, lever or hands on occasion!.'''
- Starting opposite the valve, pull the second bead from the rim by pulling up on the tire to get the bead over the rim and then pulling it down. Use the heel of your hand.
- Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.

==Repairing inner tube==
Locate hole marked during inspection.
Using sandpaper or the scraper on the side of a plastic tire lever, lightly sand an area around the hole that is slightly larger than patch size. The tube is coated with a substance that allows it to be removed from the mould when it is manufactured. This substance prevents patches from sticking and must be removed.

Apply a thin coat of glue and spread evenly around the sanded area using a clean finger or the back of the patch. '''Do not ‘glop’ on the glue.''' We tell students to thinly coat a large area.

Allow glue to dry. This make take a few minutes. This is a good time to inspect the tire for damage. If you want to test the glue, only test the perimeter area not where the patch will contact. Students will almost always want to apply the patch too soon. '''Hand out patches only when glue is dry'''
Peel patch from patch backing. '''Handle the patch only by the edges.'''
Center patch over the hole and lay patch on tube pressing down on patch, especially around the edges. Continue to apply pressure to patch for several minutes.

Rim strip: the wheel rim is made with holes between the rim sidewalls for spoke nipples. A rim strip covers the holes or nipples and protects the inner tube from sharp edges in the base of the rim and from spoke ends and nipples that may puncture the tube otherwise. The rim strip can be made out of fabric, rubber or plastic, and should be wide enough to cover the bottom of the rim, but not too wide that it interferes with the seating of the tire bead. Inspect the rim strip whenever changing a tire or inner tube. Look for tears and rips, and make sure that rim strip is centered over the spoke nipples.

Reinstall tube in tire and remount tire on wheel.
Note any directional arrow/directional tread on tire sidewall. As far as NBW is concerned the jury is out as to whether this makes any difference, but people expect the arrow to be pointing in the direction that the wheel rotates.

Inflate tube enough to give it shape and reinstall tube in tire with valve next to air pressure recommendations written on tire sidewall.

Lean rim vertically against your legs with valve hole facing up, or lay flat in lap.
Lower tire and valve into rim valve hole and align valve so it is pointing straight toward hub. Make sure it is not crooked as this can lead to an un-repairable flat tire.
Install one bead at a time – begin with bead next to your legs/closest to you.
Work the bead onto rim with hands – avoid using tire levers even if bead is tight to get back on since using tire levers for this purpose will pinch the tube and give you another flat. Work tube over rim sidewall and into rim cavity.
Install second bead onto rim in same fashion as above starting at the valve. Roll tire bead into rim with the heel of your hand if your thumbs are not strong enough. Resist the temptation to use levers. It is better to take some time with this step than punture the tube with a tire lever and have to do the whole job again.

Inspect both sides of tire for bead seating and for any sign the inner tube is sticking out. Reseat if necessary. The valve is attached to the inner tube with a thick piece of rubber. Make sure that this thicker piece of rubber is inside the tire, and not jammed between the beads of the tire and the rim.

Inflate to low pressure and inspect bead again on both sides. Look for molding line on both sides above bead – this line should run consistently above rim.

Inflate to full pressure (according to the sidewall specifications) and double check both beads all the way around the rim same as above.

==Reinstalling Wheels on Bike==

===Front Wheel===
Many people find it easier to install a front wheel when the bike is on the ground versus in a stand, so that the axle will be fully in the dropouts. The quick release skewer must be fully tight against the dropouts, or the wheel may become loose or even fall out while you are riding.
If it is a bolt-on wheel, check that the axle nuts are loose enough for the axle to fit into drop outs. If quick release, check that the quick release skewer is in its “open” position (perpendicular to the fork blade and parallel to the ground).
Check that the brake caliper’s quick release mechanism is open.
Place front wheel (front axle) in dropouts. If quick release, make sure the lever is on the left side of the fork (from a rider’s perspective).
Pull wheel fully into dropouts. For non-quick release wheels (wheels with axle nuts), the washers go on the outside of the dropouts. There may be some washers with hooks on them designed to stop the wheel from falling out of the dropouts if the nuts are not fully tightened. If everything has been left on the axle in the same order and orientation in which it was found, you will be OK.

For bolt on axles, tighten axle nuts down very tightly (both clockwise), while making sure that the wheel remains centered in the fork. '''You should tighten one side a bit, then the other a bit, until both sides are tight.''' Do not tighten one side all the way while the other side is loose—this can cause the wheel to become crooked in the fork. Close brake quick release mechanism.

For quick release wheels, line up quick release lever to that it will close just in front of left fork blade so it can fully close.
Adjust closing tension of the skewer by holding the lever steady and turning the adjusting nut clockwise until its finger snug against right drop-out. Push in lever – the lever should meet resistance half way through its swing towards the drop-out. You should need to hold on to the fork blade for leverage to close the lever all the way, and the lever should leave a mark on the palm of your hand. If not, then open and tighten the adjusting nut a bit more, and try again.

Make sure wheel is centered in fork. If necessary, adjust wheel centering by either opening the skewer and moving wheel left or right until it looks centered (go by the rim not by the tire), or by loosening axle nuts and moving wheel until it looks centered. To secure wheel, close quick release skewer, or retighten axle nuts. Close brake quick release mechanism.
pin wheel and check brake pad alignment to rim. If brake pads are not centered to wheel, you will have to adjust the brakes… another section.

===Rear Wheel===
;Bike with gears

Your aim here is to center the wheel in the bike frame and tighten the wheel onto the bike. Check that the quick release skewer and brake quick release mechanism are in the open position; check to see that rear derailleur is in outermost position.
Pull back rear derailleur to open chain and place freewheel sprockets between the top and bottom sections of the chain. If in doubt about how the chain is supposed to wrap around the sprockets of the rear wheel, looking at another bike is often helpful.
Guide wheel in between brake pads and rest chain on smallest sprocket.
Guide axle up into the dropouts and pull back or up on wheel, depending on the style of dropouts (horizontal or vertical) and hold wheel centered in rear triangle (center by the rim, not the tire).
Orient quick release lever so that it will close between the chain stay and the seat stay on the non-drive side of the bike.
Close skewer with same force as described for front wheel
Close brake quick release mechanism (or tighten axle nuts clockwise) and check brake pad alignment to rim by spinning rear wheel. If brake pads are not centered to wheel see the lesson on brakes!

;One speed bike

This is harder than the job with gears, because reinstalling the wheels requires three things to be done: Centering the wheel, tightening the axlenuts and tensioning the chain. On bikes with gears the derailleur takes is a silent partner in the wheel installation process. It takes up the slack in the chain for you.

Loop the chain to the outside of the right rear dropout, then place the axle in the dropout slot. Pick up the chain and place it over the rear sprocket. If the wheel has coaster brakes (foot brakes) attach the coaster brake strap to the brake arm on that extends from the left side of the rear hub. A bolt will go through one side of the strap, through the arm and then through the other side of the strap. Tighten the nut and bolt so they will not fall off, but not fully. You will need to be able to move the hub around as you tension the frame. Make sure the chain is correctly seated on the front sprocket and pull the wheel back with one hand, while tightening one axlenut with the other. Look at where the wheel is sitting between the frame and make sure it looks like it is in the middle. Check that there is only about 10mm (3/8”) of play in the chain. As with the derailleur bike, don’t tighten the nut all the way. Do one side a bit and then the other, ending up with both sides as tight as you can go. If the bike is a coaster brake bike, then fully tighten the coaster brake strap bolt. Here’s another point about bikes that are not good quality or have been treated roughly: the chainring (front sprocket) will often be bent. This means that on a one-speed bike the chain will tighten and loosen as the sprocket goes around. In cases like this you will have to set the chain tension so it is never too loose or too tight by sliding the wheel back and forth in the dropouts and testing for the best chain tension. If this is not possible, you might have to straighten or replace the chainring.

=Evaluation=

Have teachers try out the quiz for the youth

=Wrap up:=

Take questions and comments

[[Category:Teaching Resources]]

Tires and Tubes Teacher Training

2017-01-31T17:26:20Z

Shiseiji: /* Quick Vocabulary Lesson */

'''Tires and Tubes—teaching youth to fix a flat'''
=Objectives=
* EaB instructors will be able to identify the parts attached to the wheel of a bike and the tools and supplies needed for tube repair
* EaB instructors will be able to remove and install wheels with bolts or quick release
* EaB instructors will repair a flat tire
* EaB instructors will consider possible Academic content of this lesson:
* EaB instructors will be prepared for the common problems that students have with tire and tube repair
* Students will be able to recognize the pressure measurement on the tire and articulate the difference between pressure (pounds per square inch) and weight (pounds)

=Materials=

*Diagram that includes parts of wheel
*Tire levers Most are typically plastic these days. Advantages are that the plastic levers are less likely to damage a tube or tire bead. Metal levers are stronger and longer lasting. They must be used with more care. NBW uses Pedros levers made or recycled materials. Some plastic levers also have the advantage of having a scraper area that can be used to rough up the tube
*Glue. Bulk glue in a can is best. Innovations brand is the most economical that NBW has used in the past. There is not difference in glue quality between brands in our experience. Buy the cheapest. (This does not apply to patches)
*Patches. NBW does not recommend using commercially available patch kits in class. These materials are over 10 times as expensive as buying in bulk. Rema Tip Top are the best bulk patches available. They are good quality and reasonable price. Cheaper Taiwan or China brands tend to be more flexible and more difficult to use. Innovations patches are good. If possible get some with a plastic sheet over the top of the patch, not paper. The paper-like sheeting that some brands use is hard to take off if you have more than one hole close together and need to overlap patches. (Bike shops never use patches, so they will not necessarily give good advice about this)
*Wrenches for non-quick release type wheels that use axle nuts
*Floor pump and gauge
*Quiz, if appropriate for your class

Ideally, bikes with tires that need to be fixed. If you have a fleet of bikes and have pumped tires up when donations are delivered
If not available, bikes that can be used for wheel removal and restoration drill, plus tubes to fix separately. In the worst case scenario, you can always pucture tubes with a pin

=Activities=
==Fixing a flat:==

Lead the teachers through the activity of repairing a flat tire.

=== Mechanical Pre-Evaluation ===

How many times have NBW (co-op)staff offered to help youth with a flat because it was such a simple job only to become mired in complexity because of damaged axles? Most bike manuals will not go into the murky territory of fixing bikes that are constantly abused by pre-teens riding two (or more) on a bike. Our experience is that there are many ways to damage the axles of a bike that will make it hard to get the wheel back on. If possible check this out before offering to help a youth with a flat tire. If you confidently take the wheel off only to find that it is impossible to reinstall the wheel the bike club might instantly go from being a Good Samaritan to a bad guy… So, if working on a youth’s bike do the following inspection first:

* Are the axle nuts close to being equilateral hexagons? If they have been rounded by the application of vise grips, pliers of wrenches of the wrong size, you may not be able to get them back on tightly. Only work on the bike if you have a selection of axle nuts so that you can use to replace the damaged item
* Are the screw threads of the axle damaged? If the threads look anything other than even and similar all along the axle then it could be hard or impossible to get the nut back on if you take it off.
* Does the bike have axle pegs (pogos)? If so, the axle is probably bent unless it is a really high quality bike. Look at the bike from the front or back. Does the axle seem to describe a straight line, or does it droop at the ends, as if making a sad face because it has been ridden by more than one person at a time… Also, the threads are more likely to be damaged. NBW (co-op) will often refuse to allow youth to install pegs on their bikes in the shop. We can’t stop them doing it at home, but we can make sure that the bike leaves the shop in as safe a configuration as possible
* If the axle is especially bent, is it broken? If you think the axle could be broken, pull the dropouts apart. If they move, then the wheel is being held on only by the strength of the frame pressing in on the hub. The bike should not be ridden until a new axle is installed (at a minimum-a wheel may be necessary).
* Are the dropouts in good condition? Often when youth give their friends a ride on their axle pegs, the pegs bend the axles and the dropouts. You can see this by looking along the sides of the dropout. Is it flat, or is it uneven? If it is uneven, you may have to spend some time with a large pair of channel locks and/or a large adjustable wrench and a hammer—and that’s only if the frame is steel. If it is aluminum, you could be totally out of luck since frames of that metal are less repairable.

===Quick Vocabulary Lesson===

* Tire
- Sidewall
- Tread
- bead
* Tube
- Valve stem; Schrader (fat like a mug) or Presta (thin like a wine glass)

Teachers should follow the steps in the lesson plan, paying special attention to the following points:

===Wheel Assembly Removal===

* Release brake quick release, if any. See figure to the left. (Figure 2.1)

* Release wheel quick release by pulling quick release lever outward OR loosen both axle nuts outside of dropouts.

* Make sure that youth keep nuts on axles whenever possible—the natural tendency is to loose them.

* Guide the wheel through the brake pads and out the fork ends/dropouts.

--- Make sure that students do not force the tire through the brake pads and loosen or damage the pads. If the tire won’t fit, it should be further deflated. ---

===Tire and Tube Removal===

* Remove Tire and Tube from Rim –
- Check the "clocking" of the valve stem to the tire. Industry standard is to put the manufacturer's name at the valve stem. Note what it is.
- Common errors with this are that youth will start the process next to the valve. Start opposite the valve.
- Tires can be tightly fitted to the rim. Use tire levers to tire bead up and over rim sidewall.
**** Do not use screwdriver, knife, or other sharp object, which may damage tire or tube. ****

* If you do not have a flat tire and you want to change your tire, deflate tire completely before removing from rim by pressing down on valve pin.

* Lay wheel flat on lap or on work bench.
- Check the bead is broken from the rim and on many tires, that the bead by the valve stem is pushed all the way to the bottom of
the rim.You may need to use the heel of your hand to push on the sidewall all the way around on both sides.
- Engage one tire lever (the ‘spoon’ side) under bead (edge wire) of tire opposite the valve stem and engage the hooked end onto a spoke.
- Engage second tire lever one hand’s width or five spokes away from first lever. The bead should be loosened.
'''Students will often want to force the tire lever around the rim, a trick which can be gotten away with in the case of loosly fitting tires, but will damage tire, tube, lever or hands on occasion!.'''
- Starting opposite the valve, pull the second bead from the rim by pulling up on the tire to get the bead over the rim and then pulling it down. Use the heel of your hand.
- Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.

==Repairing inner tube==
Locate hole marked during inspection.
Using sandpaper or the scraper on the side of a plastic tire lever, lightly sand an area around the hole that is slightly larger than patch size. The tube is coated with a substance that allows it to be removed from the mould when it is manufactured. This substance prevents patches from sticking and must be removed.

Apply a thin coat of glue and spread evenly around the sanded area using a clean finger or the back of the patch. '''Do not ‘glop’ on the glue.''' We tell students to thinly coat a large area.

Allow glue to dry. This make take a few minutes. This is a good time to inspect the tire for damage. If you want to test the glue, only test the perimeter area not where the patch will contact. Students will almost always want to apply the patch too soon. '''Hand out patches only when glue is dry'''
Peel patch from patch backing. '''Handle the patch only by the edges.'''
Center patch over the hole and lay patch on tube pressing down on patch, especially around the edges. Continue to apply pressure to patch for several minutes.

Rim strip: the wheel rim is made with holes between the rim sidewalls for spoke nipples. A rim strip covers the holes or nipples and protects the inner tube from sharp edges in the base of the rim and from spoke ends and nipples that may puncture the tube otherwise. The rim strip can be made out of fabric, rubber or plastic, and should be wide enough to cover the bottom of the rim, but not too wide that it interferes with the seating of the tire bead. Inspect the rim strip whenever changing a tire or inner tube. Look for tears and rips, and make sure that rim strip is centered over the spoke nipples.

Reinstall tube in tire and remount tire on wheel.
Note any directional arrow/directional tread on tire sidewall. As far as NBW is concerned the jury is out as to whether this makes any difference, but people expect the arrow to be pointing in the direction that the wheel rotates.

Inflate tube enough to give it shape and reinstall tube in tire with valve next to air pressure recommendations written on tire sidewall.

Lean rim vertically against your legs with valve hole facing up, or lay flat in lap.
Lower tire and valve into rim valve hole and align valve so it is pointing straight toward hub. Make sure it is not crooked as this can lead to an un-repairable flat tire.
Install one bead at a time – begin with bead next to your legs/closest to you.
Work the bead onto rim with hands – avoid using tire levers even if bead is tight to get back on since using tire levers for this purpose will pinch the tube and give you another flat. Work tube over rim sidewall and into rim cavity.
Install second bead onto rim in same fashion as above starting at the valve. Roll tire bead into rim with the heel of your hand if your thumbs are not strong enough. Resist the temptation to use levers. It is better to take some time with this step than punture the tube with a tire lever and have to do the whole job again.

Inspect both sides of tire for bead seating and for any sign the inner tube is sticking out. Reseat if necessary. The valve is attached to the inner tube with a thick piece of rubber. Make sure that this thicker piece of rubber is inside the tire, and not jammed between the beads of the tire and the rim.

Inflate to low pressure and inspect bead again on both sides. Look for molding line on both sides above bead – this line should run consistently above rim.

Inflate to full pressure (according to the sidewall specifications) and double check both beads all the way around the rim same as above.

==Reinstalling Wheels on Bike==

===Front Wheel===
Many people find it easier to install a front wheel when the bike is on the ground versus in a stand, so that the axle will be fully in the dropouts. The quick release skewer must be fully tight against the dropouts, or the wheel may become loose or even fall out while you are riding.
If it is a bolt-on wheel, check that the axle nuts are loose enough for the axle to fit into drop outs. If quick release, check that the quick release skewer is in its “open” position (perpendicular to the fork blade and parallel to the ground).
Check that the brake caliper’s quick release mechanism is open.
Place front wheel (front axle) in dropouts. If quick release, make sure the lever is on the left side of the fork (from a rider’s perspective).
Pull wheel fully into dropouts. For non-quick release wheels (wheels with axle nuts), the washers go on the outside of the dropouts. There may be some washers with hooks on them designed to stop the wheel from falling out of the dropouts if the nuts are not fully tightened. If everything has been left on the axle in the same order and orientation in which it was found, you will be OK.

For bolt on axles, tighten axle nuts down very tightly (both clockwise), while making sure that the wheel remains centered in the fork. '''You should tighten one side a bit, then the other a bit, until both sides are tight.''' Do not tighten one side all the way while the other side is loose—this can cause the wheel to become crooked in the fork. Close brake quick release mechanism.

For quick release wheels, line up quick release lever to that it will close just in front of left fork blade so it can fully close.
Adjust closing tension of the skewer by holding the lever steady and turning the adjusting nut clockwise until its finger snug against right drop-out. Push in lever – the lever should meet resistance half way through its swing towards the drop-out. You should need to hold on to the fork blade for leverage to close the lever all the way, and the lever should leave a mark on the palm of your hand. If not, then open and tighten the adjusting nut a bit more, and try again.

Make sure wheel is centered in fork. If necessary, adjust wheel centering by either opening the skewer and moving wheel left or right until it looks centered (go by the rim not by the tire), or by loosening axle nuts and moving wheel until it looks centered. To secure wheel, close quick release skewer, or retighten axle nuts. Close brake quick release mechanism.
pin wheel and check brake pad alignment to rim. If brake pads are not centered to wheel, you will have to adjust the brakes… another section.

===Rear Wheel===
;Bike with gears

Your aim here is to center the wheel in the bike frame and tighten the wheel onto the bike. Check that the quick release skewer and brake quick release mechanism are in the open position; check to see that rear derailleur is in outermost position.
Pull back rear derailleur to open chain and place freewheel sprockets between the top and bottom sections of the chain. If in doubt about how the chain is supposed to wrap around the sprockets of the rear wheel, looking at another bike is often helpful.
Guide wheel in between brake pads and rest chain on smallest sprocket.
Guide axle up into the dropouts and pull back or up on wheel, depending on the style of dropouts (horizontal or vertical) and hold wheel centered in rear triangle (center by the rim, not the tire).
Orient quick release lever so that it will close between the chain stay and the seat stay on the non-drive side of the bike.
Close skewer with same force as described for front wheel
Close brake quick release mechanism (or tighten axle nuts clockwise) and check brake pad alignment to rim by spinning rear wheel. If brake pads are not centered to wheel see the lesson on brakes!

;One speed bike

This is harder than the job with gears, because reinstalling the wheels requires three things to be done: Centering the wheel, tightening the axlenuts and tensioning the chain. On bikes with gears the derailleur takes is a silent partner in the wheel installation process. It takes up the slack in the chain for you.

Loop the chain to the outside of the right rear dropout, then place the axle in the dropout slot. Pick up the chain and place it over the rear sprocket. If the wheel has coaster brakes (foot brakes) attach the coaster brake strap to the brake arm on that extends from the left side of the rear hub. A bolt will go through one side of the strap, through the arm and then through the other side of the strap. Tighten the nut and bolt so they will not fall off, but not fully. You will need to be able to move the hub around as you tension the frame. Make sure the chain is correctly seated on the front sprocket and pull the wheel back with one hand, while tightening one axlenut with the other. Look at where the wheel is sitting between the frame and make sure it looks like it is in the middle. Check that there is only about 10mm (3/8”) of play in the chain. As with the derailleur bike, don’t tighten the nut all the way. Do one side a bit and then the other, ending up with both sides as tight as you can go. If the bike is a coaster brake bike, then fully tighten the coaster brake strap bolt. Here’s another point about bikes that are not good quality or have been treated roughly: the chainring (front sprocket) will often be bent. This means that on a one-speed bike the chain will tighten and loosen as the sprocket goes around. In cases like this you will have to set the chain tension so it is never too loose or too tight by sliding the wheel back and forth in the dropouts and testing for the best chain tension. If this is not possible, you might have to straighten or replace the chainring.

=Evaluation=

Have teachers try out the quiz for the youth

=Wrap up:=

Take questions and comments

[[Category:Teaching Resources]]

Tires and Tubes Teacher Training

2017-01-31T17:25:19Z

Shiseiji: /* Tire and Tube Removal */

'''Tires and Tubes—teaching youth to fix a flat'''
=Objectives=
* EaB instructors will be able to identify the parts attached to the wheel of a bike and the tools and supplies needed for tube repair
* EaB instructors will be able to remove and install wheels with bolts or quick release
* EaB instructors will repair a flat tire
* EaB instructors will consider possible Academic content of this lesson:
* EaB instructors will be prepared for the common problems that students have with tire and tube repair
* Students will be able to recognize the pressure measurement on the tire and articulate the difference between pressure (pounds per square inch) and weight (pounds)

=Materials=

*Diagram that includes parts of wheel
*Tire levers Most are typically plastic these days. Advantages are that the plastic levers are less likely to damage a tube or tire bead. Metal levers are stronger and longer lasting. They must be used with more care. NBW uses Pedros levers made or recycled materials. Some plastic levers also have the advantage of having a scraper area that can be used to rough up the tube
*Glue. Bulk glue in a can is best. Innovations brand is the most economical that NBW has used in the past. There is not difference in glue quality between brands in our experience. Buy the cheapest. (This does not apply to patches)
*Patches. NBW does not recommend using commercially available patch kits in class. These materials are over 10 times as expensive as buying in bulk. Rema Tip Top are the best bulk patches available. They are good quality and reasonable price. Cheaper Taiwan or China brands tend to be more flexible and more difficult to use. Innovations patches are good. If possible get some with a plastic sheet over the top of the patch, not paper. The paper-like sheeting that some brands use is hard to take off if you have more than one hole close together and need to overlap patches. (Bike shops never use patches, so they will not necessarily give good advice about this)
*Wrenches for non-quick release type wheels that use axle nuts
*Floor pump and gauge
*Quiz, if appropriate for your class

Ideally, bikes with tires that need to be fixed. If you have a fleet of bikes and have pumped tires up when donations are delivered
If not available, bikes that can be used for wheel removal and restoration drill, plus tubes to fix separately. In the worst case scenario, you can always pucture tubes with a pin

=Activities=
==Fixing a flat:==

Lead the teachers through the activity of repairing a flat tire.

=== Mechanical Pre-Evaluation ===

How many times have NBW (co-op)staff offered to help youth with a flat because it was such a simple job only to become mired in complexity because of damaged axles? Most bike manuals will not go into the murky territory of fixing bikes that are constantly abused by pre-teens riding two (or more) on a bike. Our experience is that there are many ways to damage the axles of a bike that will make it hard to get the wheel back on. If possible check this out before offering to help a youth with a flat tire. If you confidently take the wheel off only to find that it is impossible to reinstall the wheel the bike club might instantly go from being a Good Samaritan to a bad guy… So, if working on a youth’s bike do the following inspection first:

* Are the axle nuts close to being equilateral hexagons? If they have been rounded by the application of vise grips, pliers of wrenches of the wrong size, you may not be able to get them back on tightly. Only work on the bike if you have a selection of axle nuts so that you can use to replace the damaged item
* Are the screw threads of the axle damaged? If the threads look anything other than even and similar all along the axle then it could be hard or impossible to get the nut back on if you take it off.
* Does the bike have axle pegs (pogos)? If so, the axle is probably bent unless it is a really high quality bike. Look at the bike from the front or back. Does the axle seem to describe a straight line, or does it droop at the ends, as if making a sad face because it has been ridden by more than one person at a time… Also, the threads are more likely to be damaged. NBW (co-op) will often refuse to allow youth to install pegs on their bikes in the shop. We can’t stop them doing it at home, but we can make sure that the bike leaves the shop in as safe a configuration as possible
* If the axle is especially bent, is it broken? If you think the axle could be broken, pull the dropouts apart. If they move, then the wheel is being held on only by the strength of the frame pressing in on the hub. The bike should not be ridden until a new axle is installed (at a minimum-a wheel may be necessary).
* Are the dropouts in good condition? Often when youth give their friends a ride on their axle pegs, the pegs bend the axles and the dropouts. You can see this by looking along the sides of the dropout. Is it flat, or is it uneven? If it is uneven, you may have to spend some time with a large pair of channel locks and/or a large adjustable wrench and a hammer—and that’s only if the frame is steel. If it is aluminum, you could be totally out of luck since frames of that metal are less repairable.

===Quick Vocabulary Lesson===

* Tire
- Sidewall
- Tread
- bead
* Valve stem; Schrader (fat like a mug) or Presta (thin like a wine glass)

Teachers should follow the steps in the lesson plan, paying special attention to the following points:

===Wheel Assembly Removal===

* Release brake quick release, if any. See figure to the left. (Figure 2.1)

* Release wheel quick release by pulling quick release lever outward OR loosen both axle nuts outside of dropouts.

* Make sure that youth keep nuts on axles whenever possible—the natural tendency is to loose them.

* Guide the wheel through the brake pads and out the fork ends/dropouts.

--- Make sure that students do not force the tire through the brake pads and loosen or damage the pads. If the tire won’t fit, it should be further deflated. ---

===Tire and Tube Removal===

* Remove Tire and Tube from Rim –
- Check the "clocking" of the valve stem to the tire. Industry standard is to put the manufacturer's name at the valve stem. Note what it is.
- Common errors with this are that youth will start the process next to the valve. Start opposite the valve.
- Tires can be tightly fitted to the rim. Use tire levers to tire bead up and over rim sidewall.
**** Do not use screwdriver, knife, or other sharp object, which may damage tire or tube. ****

* If you do not have a flat tire and you want to change your tire, deflate tire completely before removing from rim by pressing down on valve pin.

* Lay wheel flat on lap or on work bench.
- Check the bead is broken from the rim and on many tires, that the bead by the valve stem is pushed all the way to the bottom of
the rim.You may need to use the heel of your hand to push on the sidewall all the way around on both sides.
- Engage one tire lever (the ‘spoon’ side) under bead (edge wire) of tire opposite the valve stem and engage the hooked end onto a spoke.
- Engage second tire lever one hand’s width or five spokes away from first lever. The bead should be loosened.
'''Students will often want to force the tire lever around the rim, a trick which can be gotten away with in the case of loosly fitting tires, but will damage tire, tube, lever or hands on occasion!.'''
- Starting opposite the valve, pull the second bead from the rim by pulling up on the tire to get the bead over the rim and then pulling it down. Use the heel of your hand.
- Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.

==Repairing inner tube==
Locate hole marked during inspection.
Using sandpaper or the scraper on the side of a plastic tire lever, lightly sand an area around the hole that is slightly larger than patch size. The tube is coated with a substance that allows it to be removed from the mould when it is manufactured. This substance prevents patches from sticking and must be removed.

Apply a thin coat of glue and spread evenly around the sanded area using a clean finger or the back of the patch. '''Do not ‘glop’ on the glue.''' We tell students to thinly coat a large area.

Allow glue to dry. This make take a few minutes. This is a good time to inspect the tire for damage. If you want to test the glue, only test the perimeter area not where the patch will contact. Students will almost always want to apply the patch too soon. '''Hand out patches only when glue is dry'''
Peel patch from patch backing. '''Handle the patch only by the edges.'''
Center patch over the hole and lay patch on tube pressing down on patch, especially around the edges. Continue to apply pressure to patch for several minutes.

Rim strip: the wheel rim is made with holes between the rim sidewalls for spoke nipples. A rim strip covers the holes or nipples and protects the inner tube from sharp edges in the base of the rim and from spoke ends and nipples that may puncture the tube otherwise. The rim strip can be made out of fabric, rubber or plastic, and should be wide enough to cover the bottom of the rim, but not too wide that it interferes with the seating of the tire bead. Inspect the rim strip whenever changing a tire or inner tube. Look for tears and rips, and make sure that rim strip is centered over the spoke nipples.

Reinstall tube in tire and remount tire on wheel.
Note any directional arrow/directional tread on tire sidewall. As far as NBW is concerned the jury is out as to whether this makes any difference, but people expect the arrow to be pointing in the direction that the wheel rotates.

Inflate tube enough to give it shape and reinstall tube in tire with valve next to air pressure recommendations written on tire sidewall.

Lean rim vertically against your legs with valve hole facing up, or lay flat in lap.
Lower tire and valve into rim valve hole and align valve so it is pointing straight toward hub. Make sure it is not crooked as this can lead to an un-repairable flat tire.
Install one bead at a time – begin with bead next to your legs/closest to you.
Work the bead onto rim with hands – avoid using tire levers even if bead is tight to get back on since using tire levers for this purpose will pinch the tube and give you another flat. Work tube over rim sidewall and into rim cavity.
Install second bead onto rim in same fashion as above starting at the valve. Roll tire bead into rim with the heel of your hand if your thumbs are not strong enough. Resist the temptation to use levers. It is better to take some time with this step than punture the tube with a tire lever and have to do the whole job again.

Inspect both sides of tire for bead seating and for any sign the inner tube is sticking out. Reseat if necessary. The valve is attached to the inner tube with a thick piece of rubber. Make sure that this thicker piece of rubber is inside the tire, and not jammed between the beads of the tire and the rim.

Inflate to low pressure and inspect bead again on both sides. Look for molding line on both sides above bead – this line should run consistently above rim.

Inflate to full pressure (according to the sidewall specifications) and double check both beads all the way around the rim same as above.

==Reinstalling Wheels on Bike==

===Front Wheel===
Many people find it easier to install a front wheel when the bike is on the ground versus in a stand, so that the axle will be fully in the dropouts. The quick release skewer must be fully tight against the dropouts, or the wheel may become loose or even fall out while you are riding.
If it is a bolt-on wheel, check that the axle nuts are loose enough for the axle to fit into drop outs. If quick release, check that the quick release skewer is in its “open” position (perpendicular to the fork blade and parallel to the ground).
Check that the brake caliper’s quick release mechanism is open.
Place front wheel (front axle) in dropouts. If quick release, make sure the lever is on the left side of the fork (from a rider’s perspective).
Pull wheel fully into dropouts. For non-quick release wheels (wheels with axle nuts), the washers go on the outside of the dropouts. There may be some washers with hooks on them designed to stop the wheel from falling out of the dropouts if the nuts are not fully tightened. If everything has been left on the axle in the same order and orientation in which it was found, you will be OK.

For bolt on axles, tighten axle nuts down very tightly (both clockwise), while making sure that the wheel remains centered in the fork. '''You should tighten one side a bit, then the other a bit, until both sides are tight.''' Do not tighten one side all the way while the other side is loose—this can cause the wheel to become crooked in the fork. Close brake quick release mechanism.

For quick release wheels, line up quick release lever to that it will close just in front of left fork blade so it can fully close.
Adjust closing tension of the skewer by holding the lever steady and turning the adjusting nut clockwise until its finger snug against right drop-out. Push in lever – the lever should meet resistance half way through its swing towards the drop-out. You should need to hold on to the fork blade for leverage to close the lever all the way, and the lever should leave a mark on the palm of your hand. If not, then open and tighten the adjusting nut a bit more, and try again.

Make sure wheel is centered in fork. If necessary, adjust wheel centering by either opening the skewer and moving wheel left or right until it looks centered (go by the rim not by the tire), or by loosening axle nuts and moving wheel until it looks centered. To secure wheel, close quick release skewer, or retighten axle nuts. Close brake quick release mechanism.
pin wheel and check brake pad alignment to rim. If brake pads are not centered to wheel, you will have to adjust the brakes… another section.

===Rear Wheel===
;Bike with gears

Your aim here is to center the wheel in the bike frame and tighten the wheel onto the bike. Check that the quick release skewer and brake quick release mechanism are in the open position; check to see that rear derailleur is in outermost position.
Pull back rear derailleur to open chain and place freewheel sprockets between the top and bottom sections of the chain. If in doubt about how the chain is supposed to wrap around the sprockets of the rear wheel, looking at another bike is often helpful.
Guide wheel in between brake pads and rest chain on smallest sprocket.
Guide axle up into the dropouts and pull back or up on wheel, depending on the style of dropouts (horizontal or vertical) and hold wheel centered in rear triangle (center by the rim, not the tire).
Orient quick release lever so that it will close between the chain stay and the seat stay on the non-drive side of the bike.
Close skewer with same force as described for front wheel
Close brake quick release mechanism (or tighten axle nuts clockwise) and check brake pad alignment to rim by spinning rear wheel. If brake pads are not centered to wheel see the lesson on brakes!

;One speed bike

This is harder than the job with gears, because reinstalling the wheels requires three things to be done: Centering the wheel, tightening the axlenuts and tensioning the chain. On bikes with gears the derailleur takes is a silent partner in the wheel installation process. It takes up the slack in the chain for you.

Loop the chain to the outside of the right rear dropout, then place the axle in the dropout slot. Pick up the chain and place it over the rear sprocket. If the wheel has coaster brakes (foot brakes) attach the coaster brake strap to the brake arm on that extends from the left side of the rear hub. A bolt will go through one side of the strap, through the arm and then through the other side of the strap. Tighten the nut and bolt so they will not fall off, but not fully. You will need to be able to move the hub around as you tension the frame. Make sure the chain is correctly seated on the front sprocket and pull the wheel back with one hand, while tightening one axlenut with the other. Look at where the wheel is sitting between the frame and make sure it looks like it is in the middle. Check that there is only about 10mm (3/8”) of play in the chain. As with the derailleur bike, don’t tighten the nut all the way. Do one side a bit and then the other, ending up with both sides as tight as you can go. If the bike is a coaster brake bike, then fully tighten the coaster brake strap bolt. Here’s another point about bikes that are not good quality or have been treated roughly: the chainring (front sprocket) will often be bent. This means that on a one-speed bike the chain will tighten and loosen as the sprocket goes around. In cases like this you will have to set the chain tension so it is never too loose or too tight by sliding the wheel back and forth in the dropouts and testing for the best chain tension. If this is not possible, you might have to straighten or replace the chainring.

=Evaluation=

Have teachers try out the quiz for the youth

=Wrap up:=

Take questions and comments

[[Category:Teaching Resources]]

Tires and Tubes Teacher Training

2017-01-31T17:23:23Z

Shiseiji: /* Tube Repair and Tire Inspection */

'''Tires and Tubes—teaching youth to fix a flat'''
=Objectives=
* EaB instructors will be able to identify the parts attached to the wheel of a bike and the tools and supplies needed for tube repair
* EaB instructors will be able to remove and install wheels with bolts or quick release
* EaB instructors will repair a flat tire
* EaB instructors will consider possible Academic content of this lesson:
* EaB instructors will be prepared for the common problems that students have with tire and tube repair
* Students will be able to recognize the pressure measurement on the tire and articulate the difference between pressure (pounds per square inch) and weight (pounds)

=Materials=

*Diagram that includes parts of wheel
*Tire levers Most are typically plastic these days. Advantages are that the plastic levers are less likely to damage a tube or tire bead. Metal levers are stronger and longer lasting. They must be used with more care. NBW uses Pedros levers made or recycled materials. Some plastic levers also have the advantage of having a scraper area that can be used to rough up the tube
*Glue. Bulk glue in a can is best. Innovations brand is the most economical that NBW has used in the past. There is not difference in glue quality between brands in our experience. Buy the cheapest. (This does not apply to patches)
*Patches. NBW does not recommend using commercially available patch kits in class. These materials are over 10 times as expensive as buying in bulk. Rema Tip Top are the best bulk patches available. They are good quality and reasonable price. Cheaper Taiwan or China brands tend to be more flexible and more difficult to use. Innovations patches are good. If possible get some with a plastic sheet over the top of the patch, not paper. The paper-like sheeting that some brands use is hard to take off if you have more than one hole close together and need to overlap patches. (Bike shops never use patches, so they will not necessarily give good advice about this)
*Wrenches for non-quick release type wheels that use axle nuts
*Floor pump and gauge
*Quiz, if appropriate for your class

Ideally, bikes with tires that need to be fixed. If you have a fleet of bikes and have pumped tires up when donations are delivered
If not available, bikes that can be used for wheel removal and restoration drill, plus tubes to fix separately. In the worst case scenario, you can always pucture tubes with a pin

=Activities=
==Fixing a flat:==

Lead the teachers through the activity of repairing a flat tire.

=== Mechanical Pre-Evaluation ===

How many times have NBW (co-op)staff offered to help youth with a flat because it was such a simple job only to become mired in complexity because of damaged axles? Most bike manuals will not go into the murky territory of fixing bikes that are constantly abused by pre-teens riding two (or more) on a bike. Our experience is that there are many ways to damage the axles of a bike that will make it hard to get the wheel back on. If possible check this out before offering to help a youth with a flat tire. If you confidently take the wheel off only to find that it is impossible to reinstall the wheel the bike club might instantly go from being a Good Samaritan to a bad guy… So, if working on a youth’s bike do the following inspection first:

* Are the axle nuts close to being equilateral hexagons? If they have been rounded by the application of vise grips, pliers of wrenches of the wrong size, you may not be able to get them back on tightly. Only work on the bike if you have a selection of axle nuts so that you can use to replace the damaged item
* Are the screw threads of the axle damaged? If the threads look anything other than even and similar all along the axle then it could be hard or impossible to get the nut back on if you take it off.
* Does the bike have axle pegs (pogos)? If so, the axle is probably bent unless it is a really high quality bike. Look at the bike from the front or back. Does the axle seem to describe a straight line, or does it droop at the ends, as if making a sad face because it has been ridden by more than one person at a time… Also, the threads are more likely to be damaged. NBW (co-op) will often refuse to allow youth to install pegs on their bikes in the shop. We can’t stop them doing it at home, but we can make sure that the bike leaves the shop in as safe a configuration as possible
* If the axle is especially bent, is it broken? If you think the axle could be broken, pull the dropouts apart. If they move, then the wheel is being held on only by the strength of the frame pressing in on the hub. The bike should not be ridden until a new axle is installed (at a minimum-a wheel may be necessary).
* Are the dropouts in good condition? Often when youth give their friends a ride on their axle pegs, the pegs bend the axles and the dropouts. You can see this by looking along the sides of the dropout. Is it flat, or is it uneven? If it is uneven, you may have to spend some time with a large pair of channel locks and/or a large adjustable wrench and a hammer—and that’s only if the frame is steel. If it is aluminum, you could be totally out of luck since frames of that metal are less repairable.

===Quick Vocabulary Lesson===

* Tire
- Sidewall
- Tread
- bead
* Valve stem; Schrader (fat like a mug) or Presta (thin like a wine glass)

Teachers should follow the steps in the lesson plan, paying special attention to the following points:

===Wheel Assembly Removal===

* Release brake quick release, if any. See figure to the left. (Figure 2.1)

* Release wheel quick release by pulling quick release lever outward OR loosen both axle nuts outside of dropouts.

* Make sure that youth keep nuts on axles whenever possible—the natural tendency is to loose them.

* Guide the wheel through the brake pads and out the fork ends/dropouts.

--- Make sure that students do not force the tire through the brake pads and loosen or damage the pads. If the tire won’t fit, it should be further deflated. ---

===Tire and Tube Removal===

* Remove Tire and Tube from Rim –
- Check the "clocking" of the valve stem to the tire. Industry standard is to put the manufacturer's name at the valve stem. Note what it is.
- Common errors with this are that youth will start the process next to the valve. Start opposite the valve.
- Tires can be tightly fitted to the rim. Use tire levers to tire bead up and over rim sidewall.
**** Do not use screwdriver, knife, or other sharp object, which may damage tire or tube. ****

* If you do not have a flat tire and you want to change your tire, deflate tire completely before removing from rim by pressing down on valve pin.

* Lay wheel flat on lap or on work bench.
- Check the bead is broken from the rim and on many tires, that the bead by the valve stem is pushed all the way to the bottom of the rim.You may need to use the heel of your hand to push on the sidewall all the way around on both sides.
- Engage one tire lever (the ‘spoon’ side) under bead (edge wire) of tire opposite the valve stem and engage the hooked end onto a spoke.
- Engage second tire lever one hand’s width or five spokes away from first lever. The bead should be loosened.
'''Students will often want to force the tire lever around the rim, a trick which can be gotten away with in the case of loosly fitting tires, but will damage tire, tube, lever or hands on occasion!.'''
- Starting opposite the valve, pull the second bead from the rim by pulling up on the tire to get the bead over the rim and then pulling it down. Use the heel of your hand.
- Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.

==Repairing inner tube==
Locate hole marked during inspection.
Using sandpaper or the scraper on the side of a plastic tire lever, lightly sand an area around the hole that is slightly larger than patch size. The tube is coated with a substance that allows it to be removed from the mould when it is manufactured. This substance prevents patches from sticking and must be removed.

Apply a thin coat of glue and spread evenly around the sanded area using a clean finger or the back of the patch. '''Do not ‘glop’ on the glue.''' We tell students to thinly coat a large area.

Allow glue to dry. This make take a few minutes. This is a good time to inspect the tire for damage. If you want to test the glue, only test the perimeter area not where the patch will contact. Students will almost always want to apply the patch too soon. '''Hand out patches only when glue is dry'''
Peel patch from patch backing. '''Handle the patch only by the edges.'''
Center patch over the hole and lay patch on tube pressing down on patch, especially around the edges. Continue to apply pressure to patch for several minutes.

Rim strip: the wheel rim is made with holes between the rim sidewalls for spoke nipples. A rim strip covers the holes or nipples and protects the inner tube from sharp edges in the base of the rim and from spoke ends and nipples that may puncture the tube otherwise. The rim strip can be made out of fabric, rubber or plastic, and should be wide enough to cover the bottom of the rim, but not too wide that it interferes with the seating of the tire bead. Inspect the rim strip whenever changing a tire or inner tube. Look for tears and rips, and make sure that rim strip is centered over the spoke nipples.

Reinstall tube in tire and remount tire on wheel.
Note any directional arrow/directional tread on tire sidewall. As far as NBW is concerned the jury is out as to whether this makes any difference, but people expect the arrow to be pointing in the direction that the wheel rotates.

Inflate tube enough to give it shape and reinstall tube in tire with valve next to air pressure recommendations written on tire sidewall.

Lean rim vertically against your legs with valve hole facing up, or lay flat in lap.
Lower tire and valve into rim valve hole and align valve so it is pointing straight toward hub. Make sure it is not crooked as this can lead to an un-repairable flat tire.
Install one bead at a time – begin with bead next to your legs/closest to you.
Work the bead onto rim with hands – avoid using tire levers even if bead is tight to get back on since using tire levers for this purpose will pinch the tube and give you another flat. Work tube over rim sidewall and into rim cavity.
Install second bead onto rim in same fashion as above starting at the valve. Roll tire bead into rim with the heel of your hand if your thumbs are not strong enough. Resist the temptation to use levers. It is better to take some time with this step than punture the tube with a tire lever and have to do the whole job again.

Inspect both sides of tire for bead seating and for any sign the inner tube is sticking out. Reseat if necessary. The valve is attached to the inner tube with a thick piece of rubber. Make sure that this thicker piece of rubber is inside the tire, and not jammed between the beads of the tire and the rim.

Inflate to low pressure and inspect bead again on both sides. Look for molding line on both sides above bead – this line should run consistently above rim.

Inflate to full pressure (according to the sidewall specifications) and double check both beads all the way around the rim same as above.

==Reinstalling Wheels on Bike==

===Front Wheel===
Many people find it easier to install a front wheel when the bike is on the ground versus in a stand, so that the axle will be fully in the dropouts. The quick release skewer must be fully tight against the dropouts, or the wheel may become loose or even fall out while you are riding.
If it is a bolt-on wheel, check that the axle nuts are loose enough for the axle to fit into drop outs. If quick release, check that the quick release skewer is in its “open” position (perpendicular to the fork blade and parallel to the ground).
Check that the brake caliper’s quick release mechanism is open.
Place front wheel (front axle) in dropouts. If quick release, make sure the lever is on the left side of the fork (from a rider’s perspective).
Pull wheel fully into dropouts. For non-quick release wheels (wheels with axle nuts), the washers go on the outside of the dropouts. There may be some washers with hooks on them designed to stop the wheel from falling out of the dropouts if the nuts are not fully tightened. If everything has been left on the axle in the same order and orientation in which it was found, you will be OK.

For bolt on axles, tighten axle nuts down very tightly (both clockwise), while making sure that the wheel remains centered in the fork. '''You should tighten one side a bit, then the other a bit, until both sides are tight.''' Do not tighten one side all the way while the other side is loose—this can cause the wheel to become crooked in the fork. Close brake quick release mechanism.

For quick release wheels, line up quick release lever to that it will close just in front of left fork blade so it can fully close.
Adjust closing tension of the skewer by holding the lever steady and turning the adjusting nut clockwise until its finger snug against right drop-out. Push in lever – the lever should meet resistance half way through its swing towards the drop-out. You should need to hold on to the fork blade for leverage to close the lever all the way, and the lever should leave a mark on the palm of your hand. If not, then open and tighten the adjusting nut a bit more, and try again.

Make sure wheel is centered in fork. If necessary, adjust wheel centering by either opening the skewer and moving wheel left or right until it looks centered (go by the rim not by the tire), or by loosening axle nuts and moving wheel until it looks centered. To secure wheel, close quick release skewer, or retighten axle nuts. Close brake quick release mechanism.
pin wheel and check brake pad alignment to rim. If brake pads are not centered to wheel, you will have to adjust the brakes… another section.

===Rear Wheel===
;Bike with gears

Your aim here is to center the wheel in the bike frame and tighten the wheel onto the bike. Check that the quick release skewer and brake quick release mechanism are in the open position; check to see that rear derailleur is in outermost position.
Pull back rear derailleur to open chain and place freewheel sprockets between the top and bottom sections of the chain. If in doubt about how the chain is supposed to wrap around the sprockets of the rear wheel, looking at another bike is often helpful.
Guide wheel in between brake pads and rest chain on smallest sprocket.
Guide axle up into the dropouts and pull back or up on wheel, depending on the style of dropouts (horizontal or vertical) and hold wheel centered in rear triangle (center by the rim, not the tire).
Orient quick release lever so that it will close between the chain stay and the seat stay on the non-drive side of the bike.
Close skewer with same force as described for front wheel
Close brake quick release mechanism (or tighten axle nuts clockwise) and check brake pad alignment to rim by spinning rear wheel. If brake pads are not centered to wheel see the lesson on brakes!

;One speed bike

This is harder than the job with gears, because reinstalling the wheels requires three things to be done: Centering the wheel, tightening the axlenuts and tensioning the chain. On bikes with gears the derailleur takes is a silent partner in the wheel installation process. It takes up the slack in the chain for you.

Loop the chain to the outside of the right rear dropout, then place the axle in the dropout slot. Pick up the chain and place it over the rear sprocket. If the wheel has coaster brakes (foot brakes) attach the coaster brake strap to the brake arm on that extends from the left side of the rear hub. A bolt will go through one side of the strap, through the arm and then through the other side of the strap. Tighten the nut and bolt so they will not fall off, but not fully. You will need to be able to move the hub around as you tension the frame. Make sure the chain is correctly seated on the front sprocket and pull the wheel back with one hand, while tightening one axlenut with the other. Look at where the wheel is sitting between the frame and make sure it looks like it is in the middle. Check that there is only about 10mm (3/8”) of play in the chain. As with the derailleur bike, don’t tighten the nut all the way. Do one side a bit and then the other, ending up with both sides as tight as you can go. If the bike is a coaster brake bike, then fully tighten the coaster brake strap bolt. Here’s another point about bikes that are not good quality or have been treated roughly: the chainring (front sprocket) will often be bent. This means that on a one-speed bike the chain will tighten and loosen as the sprocket goes around. In cases like this you will have to set the chain tension so it is never too loose or too tight by sliding the wheel back and forth in the dropouts and testing for the best chain tension. If this is not possible, you might have to straighten or replace the chainring.

=Evaluation=

Have teachers try out the quiz for the youth

=Wrap up:=

Take questions and comments

[[Category:Teaching Resources]]

Tires and Tubes Teacher Training

2017-01-31T17:22:10Z

Shiseiji: /* Reassembly */

'''Tires and Tubes—teaching youth to fix a flat'''
=Objectives=
* EaB instructors will be able to identify the parts attached to the wheel of a bike and the tools and supplies needed for tube repair
* EaB instructors will be able to remove and install wheels with bolts or quick release
* EaB instructors will repair a flat tire
* EaB instructors will consider possible Academic content of this lesson:
* EaB instructors will be prepared for the common problems that students have with tire and tube repair
* Students will be able to recognize the pressure measurement on the tire and articulate the difference between pressure (pounds per square inch) and weight (pounds)

=Materials=

*Diagram that includes parts of wheel
*Tire levers Most are typically plastic these days. Advantages are that the plastic levers are less likely to damage a tube or tire bead. Metal levers are stronger and longer lasting. They must be used with more care. NBW uses Pedros levers made or recycled materials. Some plastic levers also have the advantage of having a scraper area that can be used to rough up the tube
*Glue. Bulk glue in a can is best. Innovations brand is the most economical that NBW has used in the past. There is not difference in glue quality between brands in our experience. Buy the cheapest. (This does not apply to patches)
*Patches. NBW does not recommend using commercially available patch kits in class. These materials are over 10 times as expensive as buying in bulk. Rema Tip Top are the best bulk patches available. They are good quality and reasonable price. Cheaper Taiwan or China brands tend to be more flexible and more difficult to use. Innovations patches are good. If possible get some with a plastic sheet over the top of the patch, not paper. The paper-like sheeting that some brands use is hard to take off if you have more than one hole close together and need to overlap patches. (Bike shops never use patches, so they will not necessarily give good advice about this)
*Wrenches for non-quick release type wheels that use axle nuts
*Floor pump and gauge
*Quiz, if appropriate for your class

Ideally, bikes with tires that need to be fixed. If you have a fleet of bikes and have pumped tires up when donations are delivered
If not available, bikes that can be used for wheel removal and restoration drill, plus tubes to fix separately. In the worst case scenario, you can always pucture tubes with a pin

=Activities=
==Fixing a flat:==

Lead the teachers through the activity of repairing a flat tire.

=== Mechanical Pre-Evaluation ===

How many times have NBW (co-op)staff offered to help youth with a flat because it was such a simple job only to become mired in complexity because of damaged axles? Most bike manuals will not go into the murky territory of fixing bikes that are constantly abused by pre-teens riding two (or more) on a bike. Our experience is that there are many ways to damage the axles of a bike that will make it hard to get the wheel back on. If possible check this out before offering to help a youth with a flat tire. If you confidently take the wheel off only to find that it is impossible to reinstall the wheel the bike club might instantly go from being a Good Samaritan to a bad guy… So, if working on a youth’s bike do the following inspection first:

* Are the axle nuts close to being equilateral hexagons? If they have been rounded by the application of vise grips, pliers of wrenches of the wrong size, you may not be able to get them back on tightly. Only work on the bike if you have a selection of axle nuts so that you can use to replace the damaged item
* Are the screw threads of the axle damaged? If the threads look anything other than even and similar all along the axle then it could be hard or impossible to get the nut back on if you take it off.
* Does the bike have axle pegs (pogos)? If so, the axle is probably bent unless it is a really high quality bike. Look at the bike from the front or back. Does the axle seem to describe a straight line, or does it droop at the ends, as if making a sad face because it has been ridden by more than one person at a time… Also, the threads are more likely to be damaged. NBW (co-op) will often refuse to allow youth to install pegs on their bikes in the shop. We can’t stop them doing it at home, but we can make sure that the bike leaves the shop in as safe a configuration as possible
* If the axle is especially bent, is it broken? If you think the axle could be broken, pull the dropouts apart. If they move, then the wheel is being held on only by the strength of the frame pressing in on the hub. The bike should not be ridden until a new axle is installed (at a minimum-a wheel may be necessary).
* Are the dropouts in good condition? Often when youth give their friends a ride on their axle pegs, the pegs bend the axles and the dropouts. You can see this by looking along the sides of the dropout. Is it flat, or is it uneven? If it is uneven, you may have to spend some time with a large pair of channel locks and/or a large adjustable wrench and a hammer—and that’s only if the frame is steel. If it is aluminum, you could be totally out of luck since frames of that metal are less repairable.

===Quick Vocabulary Lesson===

* Tire
- Sidewall
- Tread
- bead
* Valve stem; Schrader (fat like a mug) or Presta (thin like a wine glass)

Teachers should follow the steps in the lesson plan, paying special attention to the following points:

===Wheel Assembly Removal===

* Release brake quick release, if any. See figure to the left. (Figure 2.1)

* Release wheel quick release by pulling quick release lever outward OR loosen both axle nuts outside of dropouts.

* Make sure that youth keep nuts on axles whenever possible—the natural tendency is to loose them.

* Guide the wheel through the brake pads and out the fork ends/dropouts.

--- Make sure that students do not force the tire through the brake pads and loosen or damage the pads. If the tire won’t fit, it should be further deflated. ---

===Tire and Tube Removal===

* Remove Tire and Tube from Rim –
- Check the "clocking" of the valve stem to the tire. Industry standard is to put the manufacturer's name at the valve stem. Note what it is.
- Common errors with this are that youth will start the process next to the valve. Start opposite the valve.
- Tires can be tightly fitted to the rim. Use tire levers to tire bead up and over rim sidewall.
**** Do not use screwdriver, knife, or other sharp object, which may damage tire or tube. ****

* If you do not have a flat tire and you want to change your tire, deflate tire completely before removing from rim by pressing down on valve pin.

* Lay wheel flat on lap or on work bench.
- Check the bead is broken from the rim and on many tires, that the bead by the valve stem is pushed all the way to the bottom of the rim.You may need to use the heel of your hand to push on the sidewall all the way around on both sides.
- Engage one tire lever (the ‘spoon’ side) under bead (edge wire) of tire opposite the valve stem and engage the hooked end onto a spoke.
- Engage second tire lever one hand’s width or five spokes away from first lever. The bead should be loosened.
'''Students will often want to force the tire lever around the rim, a trick which can be gotten away with in the case of loosly fitting tires, but will damage tire, tube, lever or hands on occasion!.'''
- Starting opposite the valve, pull the second bead from the rim by pulling up on the tire to get the bead over the rim and then pulling it down. Use the heel of your hand.
- Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.

===Tube Repair and Tire Inspection===

* Inspect the tube protector
* Inspecting the Tube and Tire
- Quickly check a Schrader valve for cuts (caused by low inflation and the tube slipping inside the tire during braking).
- Re-inflate inner tube, if possible, until tube is about twice its normal width.
'''If the tube will not re-inflate at all and has a large hole or a number of holes it is probably not worth repairing.'''
- Anything much more than a pin hole or 1/8” slit is too much to patch. If holes are too close together they can be too hard to patch.

* Water generally isn't available trail-side. A leak large enough to quickly deflate the tube probably won't be hard to find.
- Inspect tube for air leaks by running hand gently over the tube, or by holding the tube up to the sensitive skin of your face to feel any air escaping.
- Move the tube around its circumference starting and ending with the valve.
- If these steps don’t work, submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles to tell you where the hole is.
- Once you have found the hole, use the repair kit scuffer/ abrasion tool to mark the hole. if you do use a pen, mark the leak with a long thin ‘X.’
'''Youth will very often want to scribble on the tube with the pen. Emphasize that a long thin X is the best. More than two lines will make it more difficult to find the hole again'''

* Inspect remainder of tube for any more holes.
- The type of cut or hole in the tube will help determine the cause of the flat. Common causes of flats are:
- Cut at valve: Misalignment of tube in rim or riding with low pressure. Be sure tube is mounted straight and check pressure before riding. Usually not repairable
- Large shredded hole or long cut or rip: Blow out, usually not repairable. Check the tire and the rim as well. Use care when seating tire during installation.
- Tube hole on the rim strip side: Rim strip failure. Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.
- Single puncture or small hole: Thorn, glass, tack, etc. Almost always repairable. Check tire for thorn, glass, tack etc. to make sure nothing is still embedded in the tire.
- Double holes or slits: Rim pinch. Tube was pinched between rim and object in road/on trail due to too little tire pressure. Increase air pressure or use wider tires.

* Now use the tube "clocking" to find the most likely area of where the tire was penetrated. The tube usually gets miss-oriented, but still there will only be two primary spots to check.
* Inspect tire for what caused flat by pulling the beads apart – inspect both the outside of the rubber tread and the inside casing.
- fully inspect the tire for glass or other foreign objects that may have punctured your tube.
- Squeeze any cut on the outside to see to look inside for objects such as slivers of glass.
- Only after a good visual inspection, carefully run your fingers along the inside casing while looking at the outside. You will want to start and finish at a recognizable point, typically the brand name label on the tyre.
- Inspect sidewall for rips, holes, or damaged rubber and casing.
- Inspect wire or Kevlar ® tire bead for damage.

==Repairing inner tube==
Locate hole marked during inspection.
Using sandpaper or the scraper on the side of a plastic tire lever, lightly sand an area around the hole that is slightly larger than patch size. The tube is coated with a substance that allows it to be removed from the mould when it is manufactured. This substance prevents patches from sticking and must be removed.

Apply a thin coat of glue and spread evenly around the sanded area using a clean finger or the back of the patch. '''Do not ‘glop’ on the glue.''' We tell students to thinly coat a large area.

Allow glue to dry. This make take a few minutes. This is a good time to inspect the tire for damage. If you want to test the glue, only test the perimeter area not where the patch will contact. Students will almost always want to apply the patch too soon. '''Hand out patches only when glue is dry'''
Peel patch from patch backing. '''Handle the patch only by the edges.'''
Center patch over the hole and lay patch on tube pressing down on patch, especially around the edges. Continue to apply pressure to patch for several minutes.

Rim strip: the wheel rim is made with holes between the rim sidewalls for spoke nipples. A rim strip covers the holes or nipples and protects the inner tube from sharp edges in the base of the rim and from spoke ends and nipples that may puncture the tube otherwise. The rim strip can be made out of fabric, rubber or plastic, and should be wide enough to cover the bottom of the rim, but not too wide that it interferes with the seating of the tire bead. Inspect the rim strip whenever changing a tire or inner tube. Look for tears and rips, and make sure that rim strip is centered over the spoke nipples.

Reinstall tube in tire and remount tire on wheel.
Note any directional arrow/directional tread on tire sidewall. As far as NBW is concerned the jury is out as to whether this makes any difference, but people expect the arrow to be pointing in the direction that the wheel rotates.

Inflate tube enough to give it shape and reinstall tube in tire with valve next to air pressure recommendations written on tire sidewall.

Lean rim vertically against your legs with valve hole facing up, or lay flat in lap.
Lower tire and valve into rim valve hole and align valve so it is pointing straight toward hub. Make sure it is not crooked as this can lead to an un-repairable flat tire.
Install one bead at a time – begin with bead next to your legs/closest to you.
Work the bead onto rim with hands – avoid using tire levers even if bead is tight to get back on since using tire levers for this purpose will pinch the tube and give you another flat. Work tube over rim sidewall and into rim cavity.
Install second bead onto rim in same fashion as above starting at the valve. Roll tire bead into rim with the heel of your hand if your thumbs are not strong enough. Resist the temptation to use levers. It is better to take some time with this step than punture the tube with a tire lever and have to do the whole job again.

Inspect both sides of tire for bead seating and for any sign the inner tube is sticking out. Reseat if necessary. The valve is attached to the inner tube with a thick piece of rubber. Make sure that this thicker piece of rubber is inside the tire, and not jammed between the beads of the tire and the rim.

Inflate to low pressure and inspect bead again on both sides. Look for molding line on both sides above bead – this line should run consistently above rim.

Inflate to full pressure (according to the sidewall specifications) and double check both beads all the way around the rim same as above.

==Reinstalling Wheels on Bike==

===Front Wheel===
Many people find it easier to install a front wheel when the bike is on the ground versus in a stand, so that the axle will be fully in the dropouts. The quick release skewer must be fully tight against the dropouts, or the wheel may become loose or even fall out while you are riding.
If it is a bolt-on wheel, check that the axle nuts are loose enough for the axle to fit into drop outs. If quick release, check that the quick release skewer is in its “open” position (perpendicular to the fork blade and parallel to the ground).
Check that the brake caliper’s quick release mechanism is open.
Place front wheel (front axle) in dropouts. If quick release, make sure the lever is on the left side of the fork (from a rider’s perspective).
Pull wheel fully into dropouts. For non-quick release wheels (wheels with axle nuts), the washers go on the outside of the dropouts. There may be some washers with hooks on them designed to stop the wheel from falling out of the dropouts if the nuts are not fully tightened. If everything has been left on the axle in the same order and orientation in which it was found, you will be OK.

For bolt on axles, tighten axle nuts down very tightly (both clockwise), while making sure that the wheel remains centered in the fork. '''You should tighten one side a bit, then the other a bit, until both sides are tight.''' Do not tighten one side all the way while the other side is loose—this can cause the wheel to become crooked in the fork. Close brake quick release mechanism.

For quick release wheels, line up quick release lever to that it will close just in front of left fork blade so it can fully close.
Adjust closing tension of the skewer by holding the lever steady and turning the adjusting nut clockwise until its finger snug against right drop-out. Push in lever – the lever should meet resistance half way through its swing towards the drop-out. You should need to hold on to the fork blade for leverage to close the lever all the way, and the lever should leave a mark on the palm of your hand. If not, then open and tighten the adjusting nut a bit more, and try again.

Make sure wheel is centered in fork. If necessary, adjust wheel centering by either opening the skewer and moving wheel left or right until it looks centered (go by the rim not by the tire), or by loosening axle nuts and moving wheel until it looks centered. To secure wheel, close quick release skewer, or retighten axle nuts. Close brake quick release mechanism.
pin wheel and check brake pad alignment to rim. If brake pads are not centered to wheel, you will have to adjust the brakes… another section.

===Rear Wheel===
;Bike with gears

Your aim here is to center the wheel in the bike frame and tighten the wheel onto the bike. Check that the quick release skewer and brake quick release mechanism are in the open position; check to see that rear derailleur is in outermost position.
Pull back rear derailleur to open chain and place freewheel sprockets between the top and bottom sections of the chain. If in doubt about how the chain is supposed to wrap around the sprockets of the rear wheel, looking at another bike is often helpful.
Guide wheel in between brake pads and rest chain on smallest sprocket.
Guide axle up into the dropouts and pull back or up on wheel, depending on the style of dropouts (horizontal or vertical) and hold wheel centered in rear triangle (center by the rim, not the tire).
Orient quick release lever so that it will close between the chain stay and the seat stay on the non-drive side of the bike.
Close skewer with same force as described for front wheel
Close brake quick release mechanism (or tighten axle nuts clockwise) and check brake pad alignment to rim by spinning rear wheel. If brake pads are not centered to wheel see the lesson on brakes!

;One speed bike

This is harder than the job with gears, because reinstalling the wheels requires three things to be done: Centering the wheel, tightening the axlenuts and tensioning the chain. On bikes with gears the derailleur takes is a silent partner in the wheel installation process. It takes up the slack in the chain for you.

Loop the chain to the outside of the right rear dropout, then place the axle in the dropout slot. Pick up the chain and place it over the rear sprocket. If the wheel has coaster brakes (foot brakes) attach the coaster brake strap to the brake arm on that extends from the left side of the rear hub. A bolt will go through one side of the strap, through the arm and then through the other side of the strap. Tighten the nut and bolt so they will not fall off, but not fully. You will need to be able to move the hub around as you tension the frame. Make sure the chain is correctly seated on the front sprocket and pull the wheel back with one hand, while tightening one axlenut with the other. Look at where the wheel is sitting between the frame and make sure it looks like it is in the middle. Check that there is only about 10mm (3/8”) of play in the chain. As with the derailleur bike, don’t tighten the nut all the way. Do one side a bit and then the other, ending up with both sides as tight as you can go. If the bike is a coaster brake bike, then fully tighten the coaster brake strap bolt. Here’s another point about bikes that are not good quality or have been treated roughly: the chainring (front sprocket) will often be bent. This means that on a one-speed bike the chain will tighten and loosen as the sprocket goes around. In cases like this you will have to set the chain tension so it is never too loose or too tight by sliding the wheel back and forth in the dropouts and testing for the best chain tension. If this is not possible, you might have to straighten or replace the chainring.

=Evaluation=

Have teachers try out the quiz for the youth

=Wrap up:=

Take questions and comments

[[Category:Teaching Resources]]

Tires and Tubes Teacher Training

2017-01-31T17:13:02Z

Shiseiji: /* Fixing a flat: */

'''Tires and Tubes—teaching youth to fix a flat'''
=Objectives=
* EaB instructors will be able to identify the parts attached to the wheel of a bike and the tools and supplies needed for tube repair
* EaB instructors will be able to remove and install wheels with bolts or quick release
* EaB instructors will repair a flat tire
* EaB instructors will consider possible Academic content of this lesson:
* EaB instructors will be prepared for the common problems that students have with tire and tube repair
* Students will be able to recognize the pressure measurement on the tire and articulate the difference between pressure (pounds per square inch) and weight (pounds)

=Materials=

*Diagram that includes parts of wheel
*Tire levers Most are typically plastic these days. Advantages are that the plastic levers are less likely to damage a tube or tire bead. Metal levers are stronger and longer lasting. They must be used with more care. NBW uses Pedros levers made or recycled materials. Some plastic levers also have the advantage of having a scraper area that can be used to rough up the tube
*Glue. Bulk glue in a can is best. Innovations brand is the most economical that NBW has used in the past. There is not difference in glue quality between brands in our experience. Buy the cheapest. (This does not apply to patches)
*Patches. NBW does not recommend using commercially available patch kits in class. These materials are over 10 times as expensive as buying in bulk. Rema Tip Top are the best bulk patches available. They are good quality and reasonable price. Cheaper Taiwan or China brands tend to be more flexible and more difficult to use. Innovations patches are good. If possible get some with a plastic sheet over the top of the patch, not paper. The paper-like sheeting that some brands use is hard to take off if you have more than one hole close together and need to overlap patches. (Bike shops never use patches, so they will not necessarily give good advice about this)
*Wrenches for non-quick release type wheels that use axle nuts
*Floor pump and gauge
*Quiz, if appropriate for your class

Ideally, bikes with tires that need to be fixed. If you have a fleet of bikes and have pumped tires up when donations are delivered
If not available, bikes that can be used for wheel removal and restoration drill, plus tubes to fix separately. In the worst case scenario, you can always pucture tubes with a pin

=Activities=
==Fixing a flat:==

Lead the teachers through the activity of repairing a flat tire.

=== Mechanical Pre-Evaluation ===

How many times have NBW (co-op)staff offered to help youth with a flat because it was such a simple job only to become mired in complexity because of damaged axles? Most bike manuals will not go into the murky territory of fixing bikes that are constantly abused by pre-teens riding two (or more) on a bike. Our experience is that there are many ways to damage the axles of a bike that will make it hard to get the wheel back on. If possible check this out before offering to help a youth with a flat tire. If you confidently take the wheel off only to find that it is impossible to reinstall the wheel the bike club might instantly go from being a Good Samaritan to a bad guy… So, if working on a youth’s bike do the following inspection first:

* Are the axle nuts close to being equilateral hexagons? If they have been rounded by the application of vise grips, pliers of wrenches of the wrong size, you may not be able to get them back on tightly. Only work on the bike if you have a selection of axle nuts so that you can use to replace the damaged item
* Are the screw threads of the axle damaged? If the threads look anything other than even and similar all along the axle then it could be hard or impossible to get the nut back on if you take it off.
* Does the bike have axle pegs (pogos)? If so, the axle is probably bent unless it is a really high quality bike. Look at the bike from the front or back. Does the axle seem to describe a straight line, or does it droop at the ends, as if making a sad face because it has been ridden by more than one person at a time… Also, the threads are more likely to be damaged. NBW (co-op) will often refuse to allow youth to install pegs on their bikes in the shop. We can’t stop them doing it at home, but we can make sure that the bike leaves the shop in as safe a configuration as possible
* If the axle is especially bent, is it broken? If you think the axle could be broken, pull the dropouts apart. If they move, then the wheel is being held on only by the strength of the frame pressing in on the hub. The bike should not be ridden until a new axle is installed (at a minimum-a wheel may be necessary).
* Are the dropouts in good condition? Often when youth give their friends a ride on their axle pegs, the pegs bend the axles and the dropouts. You can see this by looking along the sides of the dropout. Is it flat, or is it uneven? If it is uneven, you may have to spend some time with a large pair of channel locks and/or a large adjustable wrench and a hammer—and that’s only if the frame is steel. If it is aluminum, you could be totally out of luck since frames of that metal are less repairable.

===Quick Vocabulary Lesson===

* Tire
- Sidewall
- Tread
- bead
* Valve stem; Schrader (fat like a mug) or Presta (thin like a wine glass)

Teachers should follow the steps in the lesson plan, paying special attention to the following points:

===Wheel Assembly Removal===

* Release brake quick release, if any. See figure to the left. (Figure 2.1)

* Release wheel quick release by pulling quick release lever outward OR loosen both axle nuts outside of dropouts.

* Make sure that youth keep nuts on axles whenever possible—the natural tendency is to loose them.

* Guide the wheel through the brake pads and out the fork ends/dropouts.

--- Make sure that students do not force the tire through the brake pads and loosen or damage the pads. If the tire won’t fit, it should be further deflated. ---

===Tire and Tube Removal===

* Remove Tire and Tube from Rim –
- Check the "clocking" of the valve stem to the tire. Industry standard is to put the manufacturer's name at the valve stem. Note what it is.
- Common errors with this are that youth will start the process next to the valve. Start opposite the valve.
- Tires can be tightly fitted to the rim. Use tire levers to tire bead up and over rim sidewall.
**** Do not use screwdriver, knife, or other sharp object, which may damage tire or tube. ****

* If you do not have a flat tire and you want to change your tire, deflate tire completely before removing from rim by pressing down on valve pin.

* Lay wheel flat on lap or on work bench.
- Check the bead is broken from the rim and on many tires, that the bead by the valve stem is pushed all the way to the bottom of the rim.You may need to use the heel of your hand to push on the sidewall all the way around on both sides.
- Engage one tire lever (the ‘spoon’ side) under bead (edge wire) of tire opposite the valve stem and engage the hooked end onto a spoke.
- Engage second tire lever one hand’s width or five spokes away from first lever. The bead should be loosened.
'''Students will often want to force the tire lever around the rim, a trick which can be gotten away with in the case of loosly fitting tires, but will damage tire, tube, lever or hands on occasion!.'''
- Starting opposite the valve, pull the second bead from the rim by pulling up on the tire to get the bead over the rim and then pulling it down. Use the heel of your hand.
- Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.

===Tube Repair and Tire Inspection===

* Inspect the tube protector
* Inspecting the Tube and Tire
- Quickly check a Schrader valve for cuts (caused by low inflation and the tube slipping inside the tire during braking).
- Re-inflate inner tube, if possible, until tube is about twice its normal width.
'''If the tube will not re-inflate at all and has a large hole or a number of holes it is probably not worth repairing.'''
- Anything much more than a pin hole or 1/8” slit is too much to patch. If holes are too close together they can be too hard to patch.

* Water generally isn't available trail-side. A leak large enough to quickly deflate the tube probably won't be hard to find.
- Inspect tube for air leaks by running hand gently over the tube, or by holding the tube up to the sensitive skin of your face to feel any air escaping.
- Move the tube around its circumference starting and ending with the valve.
- If these steps don’t work, submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles to tell you where the hole is.
- Once you have found the hole, use the repair kit scuffer/ abrasion tool to mark the hole. if you do use a pen, mark the leak with a long thin ‘X.’
'''Youth will very often want to scribble on the tube with the pen. Emphasize that a long thin X is the best. More than two lines will make it more difficult to find the hole again'''

* Inspect remainder of tube for any more holes.
- The type of cut or hole in the tube will help determine the cause of the flat. Common causes of flats are:
- Cut at valve: Misalignment of tube in rim or riding with low pressure. Be sure tube is mounted straight and check pressure before riding. Usually not repairable
- Large shredded hole or long cut or rip: Blow out, usually not repairable. Check the tire and the rim as well. Use care when seating tire during installation.
- Tube hole on the rim strip side: Rim strip failure. Inspect inside of rim for spokes poking out or other sharp points.
- Single puncture or small hole: Thorn, glass, tack, etc. Almost always repairable. Check tire for thorn, glass, tack etc. to make sure nothing is still embedded in the tire.
- Double holes or slits: Rim pinch. Tube was pinched between rim and object in road/on trail due to too little tire pressure. Increase air pressure or use wider tires.

* Now use the tube "clocking" to find the most likely area of where the tire was penetrated. The tube usually gets miss-oriented, but still there will only be two primary spots to check.
* Inspect tire for what caused flat by pulling the beads apart – inspect both the outside of the rubber tread and the inside casing.
- fully inspect the tire for glass or other foreign objects that may have punctured your tube.
- Squeeze any cut on the outside to see to look inside for objects such as slivers of glass.
- Only after a good visual inspection, carefully run your fingers along the inside casing while looking at the outside. You will want to start and finish at a recognizable point, typically the brand name label on the tyre.
- Inspect sidewall for rips, holes, or damaged rubber and casing.
- Inspect wire or Kevlar ® tire bead for damage.

===Reassembly===
* Think about tube to tire clocking
- Professional method: valve stem at manufacturers mark
- Convenience method: valve stem opposite the tire inflation pressure markings.
* Place tube in tire and inflate the inner tube with a small amount of air. Tube must not push sidewalls apart!
* Stand up the rim with the tire/tube in front of the rim, valve stem at the 6 o'clock position.
* Ease the valve stem into the rim, but don't pull it up tight to the rim
* Ease the bead close to the rim over the rim edge at the valve stem. This way you can see that the bead close to you doesn't go onto the rim. work on all of the bead.
* Ease the second bead onto the rim and work it on ensuring the bead doesn't "clench" the rim
* A really tight tire may need the tire leaver to get the bead back over the rim
* If rim brakes weren't loosened to remove the wheel assembly, put the wheel back on before inflating the tube.
* Inflate the tube to the proper pressure.

==Repairing inner tube==
Locate hole marked during inspection.
Using sandpaper or the scraper on the side of a plastic tire lever, lightly sand an area around the hole that is slightly larger than patch size. The tube is coated with a substance that allows it to be removed from the mould when it is manufactured. This substance prevents patches from sticking and must be removed.

Apply a thin coat of glue and spread evenly around the sanded area using a clean finger or the back of the patch. '''Do not ‘glop’ on the glue.''' We tell students to thinly coat a large area.

Allow glue to dry. This make take a few minutes. This is a good time to inspect the tire for damage. If you want to test the glue, only test the perimeter area not where the patch will contact. Students will almost always want to apply the patch too soon. '''Hand out patches only when glue is dry'''
Peel patch from patch backing. '''Handle the patch only by the edges.'''
Center patch over the hole and lay patch on tube pressing down on patch, especially around the edges. Continue to apply pressure to patch for several minutes.

Rim strip: the wheel rim is made with holes between the rim sidewalls for spoke nipples. A rim strip covers the holes or nipples and protects the inner tube from sharp edges in the base of the rim and from spoke ends and nipples that may puncture the tube otherwise. The rim strip can be made out of fabric, rubber or plastic, and should be wide enough to cover the bottom of the rim, but not too wide that it interferes with the seating of the tire bead. Inspect the rim strip whenever changing a tire or inner tube. Look for tears and rips, and make sure that rim strip is centered over the spoke nipples.

Reinstall tube in tire and remount tire on wheel.
Note any directional arrow/directional tread on tire sidewall. As far as NBW is concerned the jury is out as to whether this makes any difference, but people expect the arrow to be pointing in the direction that the wheel rotates.

Inflate tube enough to give it shape and reinstall tube in tire with valve next to air pressure recommendations written on tire sidewall.

Lean rim vertically against your legs with valve hole facing up, or lay flat in lap.
Lower tire and valve into rim valve hole and align valve so it is pointing straight toward hub. Make sure it is not crooked as this can lead to an un-repairable flat tire.
Install one bead at a time – begin with bead next to your legs/closest to you.
Work the bead onto rim with hands – avoid using tire levers even if bead is tight to get back on since using tire levers for this purpose will pinch the tube and give you another flat. Work tube over rim sidewall and into rim cavity.
Install second bead onto rim in same fashion as above starting at the valve. Roll tire bead into rim with the heel of your hand if your thumbs are not strong enough. Resist the temptation to use levers. It is better to take some time with this step than punture the tube with a tire lever and have to do the whole job again.

Inspect both sides of tire for bead seating and for any sign the inner tube is sticking out. Reseat if necessary. The valve is attached to the inner tube with a thick piece of rubber. Make sure that this thicker piece of rubber is inside the tire, and not jammed between the beads of the tire and the rim.

Inflate to low pressure and inspect bead again on both sides. Look for molding line on both sides above bead – this line should run consistently above rim.

Inflate to full pressure (according to the sidewall specifications) and double check both beads all the way around the rim same as above.

==Reinstalling Wheels on Bike==

===Front Wheel===
Many people find it easier to install a front wheel when the bike is on the ground versus in a stand, so that the axle will be fully in the dropouts. The quick release skewer must be fully tight against the dropouts, or the wheel may become loose or even fall out while you are riding.
If it is a bolt-on wheel, check that the axle nuts are loose enough for the axle to fit into drop outs. If quick release, check that the quick release skewer is in its “open” position (perpendicular to the fork blade and parallel to the ground).
Check that the brake caliper’s quick release mechanism is open.
Place front wheel (front axle) in dropouts. If quick release, make sure the lever is on the left side of the fork (from a rider’s perspective).
Pull wheel fully into dropouts. For non-quick release wheels (wheels with axle nuts), the washers go on the outside of the dropouts. There may be some washers with hooks on them designed to stop the wheel from falling out of the dropouts if the nuts are not fully tightened. If everything has been left on the axle in the same order and orientation in which it was found, you will be OK.

For bolt on axles, tighten axle nuts down very tightly (both clockwise), while making sure that the wheel remains centered in the fork. '''You should tighten one side a bit, then the other a bit, until both sides are tight.''' Do not tighten one side all the way while the other side is loose—this can cause the wheel to become crooked in the fork. Close brake quick release mechanism.

For quick release wheels, line up quick release lever to that it will close just in front of left fork blade so it can fully close.
Adjust closing tension of the skewer by holding the lever steady and turning the adjusting nut clockwise until its finger snug against right drop-out. Push in lever – the lever should meet resistance half way through its swing towards the drop-out. You should need to hold on to the fork blade for leverage to close the lever all the way, and the lever should leave a mark on the palm of your hand. If not, then open and tighten the adjusting nut a bit more, and try again.

Make sure wheel is centered in fork. If necessary, adjust wheel centering by either opening the skewer and moving wheel left or right until it looks centered (go by the rim not by the tire), or by loosening axle nuts and moving wheel until it looks centered. To secure wheel, close quick release skewer, or retighten axle nuts. Close brake quick release mechanism.
pin wheel and check brake pad alignment to rim. If brake pads are not centered to wheel, you will have to adjust the brakes… another section.

===Rear Wheel===
;Bike with gears

Your aim here is to center the wheel in the bike frame and tighten the wheel onto the bike. Check that the quick release skewer and brake quick release mechanism are in the open position; check to see that rear derailleur is in outermost position.
Pull back rear derailleur to open chain and place freewheel sprockets between the top and bottom sections of the chain. If in doubt about how the chain is supposed to wrap around the sprockets of the rear wheel, looking at another bike is often helpful.
Guide wheel in between brake pads and rest chain on smallest sprocket.
Guide axle up into the dropouts and pull back or up on wheel, depending on the style of dropouts (horizontal or vertical) and hold wheel centered in rear triangle (center by the rim, not the tire).
Orient quick release lever so that it will close between the chain stay and the seat stay on the non-drive side of the bike.
Close skewer with same force as described for front wheel
Close brake quick release mechanism (or tighten axle nuts clockwise) and check brake pad alignment to rim by spinning rear wheel. If brake pads are not centered to wheel see the lesson on brakes!

;One speed bike

This is harder than the job with gears, because reinstalling the wheels requires three things to be done: Centering the wheel, tightening the axlenuts and tensioning the chain. On bikes with gears the derailleur takes is a silent partner in the wheel installation process. It takes up the slack in the chain for you.

Loop the chain to the outside of the right rear dropout, then place the axle in the dropout slot. Pick up the chain and place it over the rear sprocket. If the wheel has coaster brakes (foot brakes) attach the coaster brake strap to the brake arm on that extends from the left side of the rear hub. A bolt will go through one side of the strap, through the arm and then through the other side of the strap. Tighten the nut and bolt so they will not fall off, but not fully. You will need to be able to move the hub around as you tension the frame. Make sure the chain is correctly seated on the front sprocket and pull the wheel back with one hand, while tightening one axlenut with the other. Look at where the wheel is sitting between the frame and make sure it looks like it is in the middle. Check that there is only about 10mm (3/8”) of play in the chain. As with the derailleur bike, don’t tighten the nut all the way. Do one side a bit and then the other, ending up with both sides as tight as you can go. If the bike is a coaster brake bike, then fully tighten the coaster brake strap bolt. Here’s another point about bikes that are not good quality or have been treated roughly: the chainring (front sprocket) will often be bent. This means that on a one-speed bike the chain will tighten and loosen as the sprocket goes around. In cases like this you will have to set the chain tension so it is never too loose or too tight by sliding the wheel back and forth in the dropouts and testing for the best chain tension. If this is not possible, you might have to straighten or replace the chainring.

=Evaluation=

Have teachers try out the quiz for the youth

=Wrap up:=

Take questions and comments

[[Category:Teaching Resources]]

User talk:Shiseiji

2016-02-14T15:42:26Z

Shiseiji:

Hooray! User Talk Pages! Pleased to make your internet acquaintance! --[[User:Eugene|Eugene]] ([[User talk:Eugene|talk]]) 07:16, 14 February 2016 (PST)
Hi back. Hope to see more contributions in this area.

VeloCity Basic Class (draft)

2013-10-27T17:06:20Z

Shiseiji:

'''VéloCity Bicycle Cooperative Basic Maintenance Class'''
=Turning Nuts and Bolts – Right Hand Thread & Left Hand Thread=
= Basic Tools =
== Basic Trail/Road Tool Kit==
== Home Tool Kit==
= Bicycle Anatomy Overview =
= Bike Types by Function =
= '''A''' – Air, Tires, Tubes & Wheels=
===Basics===
===Sizes & Types===
===Tubes===
===Tires===
===Tire wear===
===Removal wheel===
===Wheels===
=='''B''' – Brakes Group set Inspection, Lubrication & Adjustments==
===Brakes & Brake Maintenance - Common Types===
===General Adjustment===
===Brake Pad Adjustment===
===Disk Brake===
===Drum brakes===
===Coaster brakes===
=='''C''' - Cables, Chains, Chain ring, Cogs/Cluster==
===Bowden cables and housings===
===Chain Wear===
===Chain rings and cassette/cogs===
=='''D''' - Derailleurs & Shifters==
===Troubleshooting Derailleurs===
===Adjusting Derailleurs===
==Maintenance Schedule==
===Before Every Ride===
===After Every Ride===
===Once a Month===
===Every Three Months===
===Every Six Months===
===Annually===
===Inspection Sheet===
==The Variables of Bike Fit==
==References==
===Diagrams===
:*'''[http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Anatomy.pdf Bike Anatomy]''' 
:*'''[http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/images/7/77/Steering.pdf Headset, Forks, etc.]''' 
:*'''[http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Cranks_and_bb.pdf Crank, Bottom Bracket, and Pedals]''' 
:*'''[http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Wheels.pdf Wheels and Brakes]''' 

===Online References===
===Books===

Community Bicycle Organizations

2013-10-21T16:42:18Z

Shiseiji: /* Ontario */

The list below uses the criteria found in the old [[Bicycle Organization Organization Project]] for what constitutes a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community_bike_shop community bike shop], namely:

* Non-profit bicycle organizations
* Bike shops that are accessible to people without money
* Shops that have an educational focus, teaching others how to fix bikes
* Shops that are volunteer run
* Organizations that ship bikes to communities in other countries.
* Shops that provide free or low-cost services to the community.
* Organizations that recycle bicycles and parts

----
'''Maps of Community Bicycle Organizations'''

''Please note: the maps are not synced with each other or the list on this page.'' Both maps are international.

Here is the [http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=215640192972316876618.0004a00c0210cf27fd36f&ll=36.173357,-105.644531&spn=43.727571,113.027344&z=3 '''Google map''']. It is probably more comprehensive for '''North America'''. You can edit this one to include your local bike collectives.

Here is the [http://www.heureux-cyclage.org/Les-ateliers-velo-dans-le-monde.html?lang=en '''open street map,'''] which includes all French ateliers (workshops) and is probably more comprehensive for '''Europe'''. You can find more information about this map [http://www.heureux-cyclage.org/La-carte-de-L-Heureux-Cyclage-le.html?lang=en '''here'''.]

[http://www.re-cycle.org/Donate/Bike/Search '''Here'''] is a Re~Cycle's searchable map of UK bike re-use projects - bit more than on this site.

Here is [https://maps.google.it/maps/ms?msid=215162290849180613331.000487a42765863523b94&msa=0&ll=41.907387,12.514801&spn=0.402683,0.891953 '''the google map'''] for the People's bicycle workshops (ciclofficine popolari) of Rome.

== Argentina ==

=== Buenos Aires===

* [[la fabricicleta]]

== Australia ==

Bicycle Recycling Network List: A very comprehensive list of local benefit bicycle projects in Australia - [http://www.bicyclerecycling.com/15.html '''Here''']

=== New South Wales ===

* [[Cycle Re-Cycle]] aka [[Nunnery Bike Workshop]] (Sydney)
* [[Cycle Rescue]] (Sydney)
* [[Newcastle Bike Ecology Centre]] (Newcastle)
* [[UNSW Bike Club]] (Sydney, Canberra)

=== Queensland ===

* [[Turnstyle]] (Brisbane)

=== Tasmania ===

* [[Hobart Bike Kitchen]] (Hobart)

===Victoria===
* [http://www.thebikeshed.org.au/ The Bike Shed], CERES (Melbourne)
* [http://monashstudentassociation.com/Services/The-Bikery The Bikery] (Monash University, Clayton, Melbourne)
* [http://www.back2bikes.com.au/ Back2Bikes] (South Melbourne)

===Western Australia===
* [[Dismantle]] (Fremantle)

== Austria ==

=== Graz ===

* [[Fahrradküche Graz]] (Graz)

=== Innsbruck ===

* [[Bikerei]] (Innsbruck)

=== Linz ===

* [[ Bikekitchen Linz]] (Linz)

=== Ottensheim ===

* [[Radamt Ottensheim]]

=== Sankt Pölten ===

* [[LAMES Radl-Selbsthilfewerkstatt]]

=== Vienna ===

* [[WUK Fahrrad Selbsthilfewerkstatt]] (Vienna/Wien)
* [[Bikekitchen Vienna]] (Vienna/Wien)

=== Wiener Neustadt ===

* [[Gründung einer Selbsthilfe-Fahrradwerkstatt]] (Wiener Neustadt)

== Belarus ==

=== Minsk ===

* [[Bike Kitchen Minsk]] (Minsk)

== Belgium ==

=== Ghent ===

* [[Bike kitchen Ghent]] (Ghent)

== Brasil ==

=== Rio Grande Do Sul ===

* [[Cidade da Bicicleta]] (Porto Alegre)

=== São Paulo ===

* [[Mão na roda]] (São Paulo)

== Canada ==

=== Alberta ===

* [[Bike Library (Edmonton)|Bike Library]] (Edmonton)
* [[Edmonton Bicycle Commuters Society]] (Edmonton)
* [[The Bike Root]] (Calgary)
* [[The Good Life Community Bike Shop]] (Calgary)

=== British Columbia ===

* [[Hub City Cycles Community Co-operative]] (Nanaimo)
* [[The Bike Kitchen (Vancouver)|The Bike Kitchen]] (Vancouver)
* [[The Kickstand (Vancouver)]] (Vancouver)
* [[Our Community Bikes]] (Vancouver)
* [[Recyclistas Community Bike Shop]] (Victoria)
* [[FreeHub Co-operative]] (Victoria)

=== Manitoba ===

* [[The Bike Lab]] (Winnipeg)
* [[The Bike Dump]] (Winnipeg)
* [[The Bike Dungeon]] (Winnipeg)
* [[The Orioles Bike Cage]] (Winnipeg)
* [[South Osborne Bike Hub]] (Winnipeg)
* [[Burrows Bike Garage]] (Winnipeg)
* [[Ralph Brown Bike Cupboard]] (Winnipeg)
* [[Sanctoral Cycle]] (Winnipeg)
* [[The WRENCH]] (Winnipeg)

=== New Brunswick ===

* [[La Bikery]] (Moncton)

=== Newfoundland and Labrador ===

* [[Ordinary Spokes]] (St. John's)

=== Nova Scotia ===

* [[Bike Again!]] (Halifax)

=== Ontario ===

* [[Recycle Cycles (Kitchener)]]
* [[The Bike Centre]] (University of Guelph, Guelph)
* [[MACycle]] (McMaster University, Hamilton)
* [[New Hope Bike Co-op]] (Hamilton)
* [[Recycle Cycles (Hamilton)]]
* [[Bikechain]] (University of Toronto, Toronto)
* [[Bikesauce]] (Toronto)
* [[Bike Pirates]] (Toronto)
* [[Evergreen Bike Works]] (Toronto)
* [[Community Bicycle Network]] (Toronto)
* [[B!KE: The Peterborough Community Bike Shop]] (Peterborough)
* [[Yellow Bike Action]] (Kingston)
* [[re-Cycles Community Bike Shop]] (Ottawa)
* [[Recyclore Bicycle Recycling]] (Ottawa)
* [[Cycle Transition]] (Ontario)

=== Quebec ===

* [[Velogik]] (Montreal)
* [[Right to Move/La voie Libre]] (Montreal)
* [[SantroVelo]] (Montreal)
* [[CRABE]] (Montréal)
* [[The Flat: Bike Collective]] (Montréal)
* [[Mile End Bike Garage]] (Montréal)
* [[PX "The Space" Bikeworks]] (Montréal)
* [[Biciklo]] (Montréal)
* [[BQAM]] (Université du Quebec à Montréal (UQAM), Montréal)
* [[Coop roue libre]] (Laval University, Quebec City)
* [[VéloCentrix]] (Québec (Limoilou))

== Croatia ==

=== Zagreb ===

* [[Biciklopopravljaona]] (Zagreb)

== Finland ==

=== Helsinki ===

* [[Pyöräpaja]]

=== Espoo ===

* [[Bikepoli]]

=== Kotka ===

* [[Pyöräpaja]]

== France ==

=== Marseille ===

* [[Collectif Vélos en Ville]] (Marseille)
* [[Vélo Utile]]

=== Dijon ===

* [[La Bécane à Jules]] (Dijon)
* [[La rustine]] (Dijon)

=== Grenoble ===

* [[uN p'Tit véLo dAnS La Tête]] (Grenoble)

=== Lyon ===

* [[Le Recycleur]] (Lyon)

=== Montpellier ===

* [[Le Vieux Biclou]] (Montpellier)

=== Nancy ===

* [[Atelier Dynamo]] (Nancy)

=== Nantes ===

* [[Vélocampus]] (Nantes)

=== Paris ===

* [[Atelier vélorutionnaire]]

=== Toulouse ===

* [[Atelier de l’association Vélorution]] (Toulouse)
* [[l'Atelier vélo du Zinc Paul]] (Toulouse)
* [[Atelier de l’association vélo Toulouse]] (Toulouse)
* [[Vélo d'Occasion]] (Toulouse)

=== Bordeaux ===

* [[Recup'r]] (Bordeaux)

== Germany ==

* [[Bike-Kitchen Dortmund]]
* [[Selbsthilfewerkstatt des ADFC Stuttgart]]
* [[Bikekitchen Augsburg]]

== Ghana ==

* [[Earn-a-Bike Ghana]]

== Greece ==

* [[Bike Kitchen Patras]]

== Guatemala ==

* [[Associatión Maya Pedal]]

== Hungary ==

* [[Bringakonyha Budapest]]

== Iceland ==

* [[Keðjuverkun]] (Reykjavík)

== Italy ==

=== Bologna ===

* [[Ciclofficina Ampio Raggio]]

=== Firenze ===

* [[Ciclofficina Brugola Rossa]]

=== Roma ===

* [[Ciclofficina Centrale]]
* [[Ciclofficina "Don Chisciotte" @ ex Snia]]
* [[Ciclofficina Popolare "ex Lavanderia"]]
* [[Ciclofficina "Macchia Rossa"]]
* [[Ciclofficina "Luigi Masetti"]]
* [[Ciclofficina "Fisica"]]

=== Sicilia ===

* [[Ciclofficina Etnea]] (Catania)

=== Torino ===

* [[Ciclofficina Casa delle Scimmie]]

== Ireland ==

* [[Rothar]]
* [[Seomra Bikes]] at [http://seomraspraoi.org/ Seomra Spraoi]

== Mexico ==

=== Chiapas ===

* [[El Cafe Machete]]

=== Querétaro ===

* [[Fixed Queretaro Cadope]]

== New Zealand ==

=== Wellington ===

* [[Mechanical Tempest]]

== Portugal ==

===Lisbon===

* [[Cicloficina dos Anjos]] (Lisboa)
* [[Cicloficina de Alfama]] (Lisboa)
* [[Cicloficina do Barreiro]] (Barreiro)
* [[Cicloficina do Oriente]] (Parque das Nações)
* [[Cicloficina do Seixal]] (Seixal)

===Oporto===

* [[Cicloficina do Porto]] (Porto)

== Spain ==

=== Galiza ===

* [[ReCiclos Propolis]] (a Coruña)

=== Madrid ===

* [[BiciLab]] (Madrid)
* [[Cicloficina Malaya]] (Madrid)
* [[Ciclotaller Secano]] (Madrid)
* [[Ciclotaller del Solar]] (Madrid)
* [[Maravillosa Ciclococina]] (Madrid)
* [[Taller de Autoreparación de Bicis del Dragón]] (Madrid)

=== Catalonia ===

* [[Biciosxs]] (Barcelona)

== Sweden ==
* [[Cykelköket Göteborg]] (Gothenburg)
* [[Cykelköket]] (Malmö)
* [[Ateljén Veloisternas Kabyss]] (Uppsala)

== United Kingdom ==

=== Aberdeen ===

* [[beCyCle]]

=== Bath ===

* [[Bath Bike Workshop]]

=== Bristol ===

* [[Bristol Bike Project]]

=== Brighton ===

* [[Cranks DIY Workshop]]

* [[Re-Cycle]]

=== Colchester ===

* [[Re-Cycle]]
* [[Re-Cycle_Colchester]]

=== Edinburgh ===

* [[The Bike Station]]

=== Glasgow ===

* [[Common Wheel Project]]
* [[The Bike Station]]

=== Leeds ===

* [[Pedallers Arms]]

=== Gloucester ===

* [[The Re-Cycle Shed]]

=== Lancaster ===

* [[Freewheelers Bicycle Workshop]]

=== London ===

* [[56a Bikespace]] (Walworth)
* [[Brixton Bicycle Art]] (Brockwell Park)
* [[Ealing Bike Hub]] (Greenford)
* [[Hackney Bike Workshop]] (Hackney)
* [[Magnificent Revolution]] (Based in London but all over the country)
* [[Tower Hamlets Wheelers]] (Tower Hamlets)
* [[Recycle-a-Bike]] (Uxbridge)
* [[Walthamstow Bicycle Recycling]] (Walthamstow)

=== Manchester ===

* [[I Bike MCR]]
* [[Pedal MCR]]
* [http://bloomersmcr.org/ Bloomers Wimmin's Bike Project]

=== Newcastle ===

* [[Recyke-Y-Bike]]

=== Oxford ===

* [[Broken Spoke Bike Co-op]]
* [[Oxford Cycle Workshop]] (closed down/insolvent, March 2012)

=== Stirling ===

* [[recyke-a-bike]] (Stirling)

=== York ===

* [[Bike Rescue]]

=== Warrington ===

* [[Cycling Projects]]

== United States ==

=== Alabama ===

* [[Bici Coop]] (Birmingham)

=== Alaska ===

* [[University of Alaska at Anchorage Bike Club]] (Anchorage)
* [[Off the Chain Bicycle Collective]] (Anchorage)

=== Arkansas ===

* [[Bike City Recyclery]] (Fayetteville)
* [[Recycles Bike Co-op]] (Little Rock)

=== Arizona ===

* [[South Side Mutual Aid Toward Independent Youth Bicycle Education Project]] (Flagstaff)
* [[BICAS]] (Tucson)
* [[Handlebar Helpers]] (Scottsdale)
* [[Helping Understand Bicycles]] (Prescott)
* [[Bike Saviours Bicycle Collective]] (Tempe)
* [[The Rusty Spoke]] (Phoenix)

=== California ===

* [[Changing Gears Bike Shop]] (Alameda)
* [[Arcata Library Bikes]] (Arcata)
* [[BicyCAL]] (Berkeley)
* [[The Green Bike Program]] (Pitzer College, Claremont)
* [[The Davis Bike Collective]] (Davis)
* [[Bicycle Kitchen]] (East Hollywood, Los Angeles)
* [[Bike Oven]] (Highland Park, Los Angeles)
* [[Bikerowave]] (Mar Vista, Los Angeles)
* [[Valley Bikery]] (Van Nuys, Los Angeles)
* [[Burbike Workspace]] (Burbank, Los Angeles)
* [[Bikery (Oakland, CA, USA)|Bikery]] (Oakland)
* [[Spokeland]] (Oakland)
* [[Ontario Wheel House]] (Ontario)
* [[Caltech Bike Lab]] (Caltech, Pasadena)
* [[The Bicycle Lounge]] (Riverside)
* [[Sacramento Bicycle Kitchen]] (Sacramento)
* [[Bikes Del Pueblo]] (San Diego)
* [[The Bike Hut Foundation]] (San Francisco)
* [[The Bike Kitchen (San Francisco)|The Bike Kitchen]] (San Francisco)
* [[Good Karma Bikes]] (San Jose)
* [[Local Bike Trader]] (San Luis Obispo)
* [[SLO Bike Kitchen]] (San Luis Obispo)
* [[Trips for Kids Marin]] aka [[Re-Cyclery (Marin, CA, USA)]] (San Rafael)
* [[Bici Centro]] (Santa Barbara)
* [[The Bike Church (Santa Cruz, CA, USA)|The Bike Church]] (Santa Cruz)
* [[Santa Cruz Campus Bike Center]] (Santa Cruz)
* [[Ventura Bike HUB]] (Ventura)

=== Colorado ===

* [[Community Cycles]] (Boulder)
* [[Derailer Bicycle Collective]] (Denver)
* The [[Bike Depot]] (Denver)
* [[Recycle Bicycles]] (Denver)
* [[Fort Collins Bike Coop]] (Fort Collins)
* [[Spokes Community Bicycle Project]] (Longmont)
* [[The Good Wheel]] (Manitou Springs)
* [[Colorado Rocky Mountain School Bike Shop]] (Carbondale)

=== Connecticut ===

* [[New Haven Bike Collective]] (New Haven)

=== Delaware ===

* [[Urban Bike Project of Wilmington]] (Wilmington)
* [[Newark Bike Project]] (Newark)

=== Florida ===

* [[Krank it Up]] (Tallahassee)
* [[The Kickstand]] (Gainesville)
* [[Lake Worth Bike Coop]] (West Palm Beach)
* [[Tampa Bay Bicycle Co-op]] (Tampa)
* [[Spokescouncil]] (Orlando)
* [[OutSpokin]] (Lake Worth)
* [[BicycleXchange-Community Built Bikes]] (Indiantown, West Palm Beach, Hobe Sound)
* [[Suncoast Community Bikes]] (Sarasota)

=== Georgia ===

* [[Sopo Bike Coop]] (Atlanta)
* [[Communicycle]] (Atlanta - Chamblee)
* [[Shift Community Bike Shop]] (Atlanta)
* [[Starter Bikes]] (Atlanta)
* [[South Atlanta Bike Shop]] (Atlanta)
* [[Savannah Bike Coop]] (Savannah)
* [[Bike Athens Bicycle Recycling Program]] (Athens)

=== Idaho ===

* [[Boise Bicycle Project]] (Boise)
* [[Village Bicycle Project]] (Moscow)
* The [[Powerhouse]] (Pocatello)

=== Illinois ===

* [[Chicago Velo Campus]] (Chicago)
* [[Blackstone Bicycle Works]] (Chicago)
* [[Bikes for Chicago]] (Chicago)
* The [[Chicago Community Bike Project]] (Chicago)
* The [[Recyclery (Chicago, IL, USA)|Recyclery]] (Evanston/Chicago)
* [[Working Bikes]] (Chicago)
* [[West Town Bikes]] (Chicago)
* The [[Bike Project of Urbana-Champaign]] (Urbana-Champaign)

=== Indiana ===

* [[Bloomington Community Bike Project]] (Bloomington)
* [[West Lafayette Bike Cooporative]] (West Lafayette)
* [[Freewheelin' Community Bikes]] (Indianapolis)
* [[Pedal & Park]] (Indianapolis)
* [[Shadeland Bicycle Collective]] (Anderson)
* [[Columbus Bicycle Cooperative]] (Columbus)

=== Iowa ===

* [[The Iowa City Bike Library]] (Iowa City)
* [[Des Moines Bike Collective]] (Des Moines)
* [[NewBo Bike Collective]] (Cedar Rapids)

===Kansas===

* [[Topeka Community Cycle Project]] (Topeka)
* [[Wichita Bicycle Collective]] (Wichita)

=== Kentucky ===

* [[Brycc Freewheel Bike Collective]] (Louisville)
* [[Broke Spoke Community Bike Shop]] (Lexington)

=== Louisiana ===

* [[Plan B]] (New Orleans)
* [[Rubarb]] (New Orleans)

=== Maine ===

* [[Community Bicycle Center]] (Biddeford)

=== Maryland ===
* [[Bikes for the World]] (Rockville)
* [[Mount Rainier Bicycle Cooperative]] (Mount Rainier)
* [[Renaissance Community Youth Bike Shop]] (Riverdale)
* [[Velocipede Bike Project]] (Baltimore)

=== Massachusetts ===
* [[Smith College Bicycle Kitchen]] (Northampton)
* [[Bikes not Bombs]] (Boston)
* [[The Community Spoke!]] (Boston)
* [[Broadway Bicycle School]] (Cambridge)
* [[Quad Bikes]] (Cambridge)
* [[Worcester Earn-A-Bike]] (Worcester)

=== Michigan ===
* [[Armory Bike Union]] (Jackson)
* [[Back Alley Bikes]] (Detroit)
* [[Bike Riot Network]] (Traverse City)
* [[Boston Square Community Bikes]] (Grand Rapids)
* [[Broke Spoke Bike Coop]] (Traverse City)
* [[Common Cycle]] (Ann Arbor)
* [[East Quad Bike Co-op]] (Ann Arbor, U of M)
* [[The Hub of Detroit]] (Detroit)
* [[Lansing Bike Coop]](Lansing)
* [[MSU Bikes]] (E. Lansing, MSU)
* [[Mount Pleasant Bike Cooperative]] (Mount Pleasant)
* [[My Wheels Are Turning]] (Traverse City)
* [[Re-Bicycle Lenawee]] (Adrian)
* [[Share a Bike]] (E. Lansing)
* [[Traverse Alive]] (Traverse City)

=== Minnesota ===

* [[The Grease Pit]] (Minneapolis)
* [[The Sibley Bike Depot]] (St. Paul)
* [[Mac Bike]] (St. Paul)
* [[The Bike Cave Collective (Duluth, MN, USA)|The Bike Cave Collective]] (Duluth)
* [[Re-Bike Project]] (Mankato)

=== Missouri ===

* [[Bicycle Works]] (St. louis)
* [[816 Bicycle Collective]] (Kansas City)

=== Montana ===

* [[Free Cycles Missoula]] (Missoula)
* [[Bozeman Bike Kitchen]] (Bozeman)

=== Nebraska ===

* [[Community Bike Project Omaha]] (Omaha)
* [[Near South Bike Kitchen]] (Lincoln)

=== Nevada ===

* [[Reno Bike Project]] (Reno)

=== New Hampshire ===

* [[Cheshire County Bicycle Collective]] / [[Keene Bicycle Co-op]] (Keene)

=== New Jersey ===

* [[Pedals for Progress]] (High Bridge)
* [[Hobiken]] (Hoboken)
* [[New Brunswick Bike Library]] (New Brunswick)
* [[The CycLAB]] (Princeton)
* [[South Orange Maplewood Bicycle Coalition]] (South Orange/Maplewood)
* [[Brick City Bike Collective]] (Newark)
* [[Second Life Bikes]] (Asbury Park)

=== New Mexico ===

* [[Chainbreaker Collective]] (Santa Fe)
* [[The Bike Works]] (Silver City)<nowiki>(575)388-1444</nowiki>

=== New York ===

* [[R Community Bikes]] (Rochester)
* [[Recycle Ithaca's Bicycles]] (Ithaca)
* [[Recycle-A-Bicycle]] Youth Program (New York City)
* [[Recycle-A-Bicycle]] DUMBO training center (Brooklyn)
* [[Troy Bike Rescue]] (Troy and Albany)
* [[Time's Up! Bike Co-op]] (New York City)
* [[Green Options Buffalo]] (Buffalo)

=== North Carolina ===

* [[Asheville ReCyclery]] (Asheville)
* [[Durham Bike Co-op]] (Durham)
* [[The ReCYCLEry]] (Carrboro)
* [[1304 Bikes]] (Raleigh)
* [[Bike Me!]] (Greensboro)
* [[ReCyclery (Charlotte, NC, USA)|ReCyclery]] (Charlotte)

=== North Dakota ===
* [[Fargo Moorhead Community Bicycle Workshop]] (Fargo)

=== Oklahoma ===
* [[OKC Infoshop]] (Oklahoma City)

=== Ohio ===

* [[Athens Bicycle Co-operative]] (Athens)
* [[Ohio City Bicycle Co-op]] (Cleveland)
* [[Oberlin Bike Co-op]] (Oberlin)
* [[Mobo Bicycle Co-op]] (Cincinnati)
* [[Third Hand Bicycle Cooperative]] (Columbus)
* [[Toledo City Bicycle Co-op]] (Toledo)
* [[Grindstone Bikes]](Berea)
* [[Summit Cycling Center]] (Akron)
* [[Cycleworks]] (Columbus)

=== Oregon ===

* [[Ashland Community Bike Program]] (Ashland)
* [[Bike Farm]] (Portland)
* [[Center For Appropriate Transport]] (Eugene)
* [[Community Cycling Center]] (Portland)
* [[City Bikes Repair Shop]] (Portland)
* [[North Portland Bikeworks]] (Portland)
* [[Corvallis Bicycle Co-op]] (Corvallis)
* [[Frans Pauwels Memorial Community Bicycle Center]] (Aloha)

=== Pennsylvania ===

* [[Bethlehem Bicycle Cooperative]] (Bethlehem)
* [[Car Free CAT-Coalition for Appropriate Transportation]] (Bethlehem)
* [[Coatesville Community Bike Works]] (Coatesville)
* [[Free Ride]] (Pittsburgh)
* [[Neighborhood Bike Works]] (Philadelphia)
** [[The Bike Church (Philadelphia, PA, USA)|The Bike Church]] (West Philadelphia)
** [[The Bikery (Philadelphia, PA, USA)|The Bikery]] (South Philadelphia)
** [[The Bike Salon (Philadelphia, PA, USA)|The Bike Salon]] (North Philadelphia)
* [[N.W. Pa. Re-Cycle]] (Meadville)
* [[Bike & Build]] (Manayunk)

=== Rhode Island ===

* [[Recycle-A-Bike]] (Providence)
* [[Woonasquatucket River Watershed Council]] - Red Shed Bike Shop (Providence)

=== South Carolina ===

* [[Holy City Bike Co-op]] (Charleston)
* [[Blackbird Bicycle Co-op]] (Columbia)
* [[Hub Cycle]] (Spartanburg)

=== South Dakota ===

* [[Yellow Bike Program & Reconditioned Bikes for Kids]] (Rapid City)
* [[Brookings Community Bicycle Collective]] (Brookings)
* [[Sioux Falls Bike Collective]] (Sioux Falls)
* [[Spearfish Bicycle Cooperative]] (Spearfish)

=== Tennessee ===

* [[Revolutions Community Bicycle Shop]] (Memphis)

=== Texas ===

* [[Austin Yellow Bike Project]] (Austin)
* [[Workshop Houston]], the parent organization of the [[Third Ward Bike Shop]] (Houston)
* [[Bikes Across Borders]] (Austin)
* [[Waco Volunteer Bike Center]] (Waco)
* [[Querencia Community Bicycle Shop]] (Denton)
* [[The Bike Cave (San Marcos, TX, USA)|The Bike Cave]] (San Marcos)

=== Utah ===

* [[Salt Lake City Bicycle Collective]] (Salt Lake City)
* [[UoU Bicycle Collective]] (Salt Lake City)
* [[Aggie Blue Bikes]] (Logan)
* [[Ogden Bicycle Collective]] (Ogden)

=== Vermont ===

* [[Freeride Montpelier]] (Montpelier)
* [[Windham County Bike Project]] (Brattleboro)
* [[Bike Recycle Vermont]] (Burlington)

=== Virginia ===

* [[Charlottesville Community Bikes]] (Charlottesville)
* [[Blacksburg Bike Collective]] (Blacksburg)
* [[Phoenix Bikes]] (Arlington)
* [[The Bike Village at George Mason University]] (Fairfax)
* [[Sharebike.org]] (Roanoke)
* [[VéloCity Bicycle Cooperative]] (Alexandria)

=== Washington ===

* [[The Hub]] Community Bike Cooperative (Bellingham)
* [[The Evergreen Bike Shop]] (Olympia)
* [[Bike and Bike]] (Olympia)
* The [[Community Build-a-Bike Project]] (Olympia)
* [[Bike Works (Seattle)]]
* [[Bikery (Seattle, WA, USA)|The Bikery]] (Seattle)
* [[The Bike Shack]] (Seattle)
* [[Pedals2People]] (Spokane)
* [[Cool Water Bikes]] (Spokane)
* [[Recyclery (Port Townsend, WA, USA)|The Recyclery]] (Port Townsend)
* [[2nd Cycle]] (Tacoma)

=== West Virginia ===

* [[Positive Spin]] (Morgantown)
* [[Spokes4Folks]] (Charleston)

=== Wisconsin ===
* [[Sunshine Community Bikes]] (Ashland)
* [[Wheels for Winners]] (Madison)
* [[Milwaukee Bicycle Collective]] (Milwaukee)
* [[Vulture Space]] (Milwaukee)
* [[The Freewheel Collective]] (Madison)

=== Washington D.C. ===

* [[The Bike House]]

=== Statistics ===

{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"
|+ U.S. Bicycle Collective Statistics by State (2011)
|-
! scope="col" | Rank
! scope="col" | State
! scope="col" | # BCs
! scope="col" | Population
! scope="col" | BCs Per Million Residents
|-
| 1 || South Dakota || 4 || 819761 || 4.88
|-
| 2 || Vermont || 3 || 630337 || 4.76
|-
| 3 || Alaska || 2 || 721523 || 2.77
|-
| 4 || Oregon || 8 || 3848606 || 2.08
|-
| 5 || Montana || 2 || 994416 || 2.01
|-
| 6 || Idaho || 3 || 1573499 || 1.91
|-
| 7 || Washington D.C. || 1 || 601723 || 1.66
|-
| 8 || Washington || 11 || 6753369 || 1.63
|-
| 9 || Michigan || 15 || 9911626 || 1.51
|-
| 10 || North Dakota || 1 || 675905 || 1.48
|-
| 11 || Utah || 4 || 2770765 || 1.44
|-
| 12 || Colorado || 6 || 5044930 || 1.19
|-
| 13 || Delaware || 1 || 900877 || 1.11
|-
| 14 || Nebraska || 2 || 1831825 || 1.09
|-
| 15 || West Virginia || 2 || 1859815 || 1.08
|-
| 16 || Rhode Island || 1 || 1055247 || 0.95
|-
| 17 || Minnesota || 5 || 5314879 || 0.94
|-
| 18 || New Jersey || 7 || 8807501 || 0.79
|-
| 19 || Arizona || 5 || 6412700 || 0.78
|-
| 20 || Indiana || 6 || 6501582 || 0.77
|-
| 21 || New Hampshire || 1 || 1321445 || 0.76
|-
| 22 || Maine || 1 || 1333074 || 0.750
|-
| 23 || Virginia || 6 || 8037736 || 0.746
|-
| 24 || Wisconsin || 4 || 5698230 || 0.702
|-
| 25 || Kansas || 2 || 2863813 || 0.698
|-
| 26 || Ohio || 8 || 11568495 || 0.69
|-
| 27 || Arkansas || 2 || 2926229 || 0.68
|-
| 28 || Iowa || 2 || 3053787 || 0.655
|-
| 29 || South Carolina || 3 || 4645975 || 0.646
|-
| 30 || North Carolina || 6 || 9565781 || 0.63
|-
| 31 || Massachusetts || 4 || 6559644 || 0.61
|-
| 32 || California || 21 || 37341989 || 0.56
|-
| 33 || Pennsylvania || 7 || 12734905 || 0.55
|-
| 34 || Illinois || 7 || 12864380 || 0.54
|-
| 35 || Maryland || 3 || 5789929 || 0.52
|-
| 36 || Georgia || 5 || 9727566 || 0.51
|-
| 37 || New Mexico || 1 || 2067273 || 0.48
|-
| 38 || Louisiana || 2 || 4553962 || 0.44
|-
| 39 || Nevada || 1 || 2709432 || 0.37
|-
| 40 || Missouri || 2 || 6011478 || 0.33
|-
| 41 || New York || 6 || 19421055 || 0.31
|-
| 42 || Connecticut || 1 || 3581628 || 0.28
|-
| 43 || Oklahoma || 1 || 3764882 || 0.27
|-
| 44 || Florida || 5 || 18900773 || 0.26
|-
| 45 || Texas || 6 || 25268418 || 0.24
|-
| 46 || Kentucky || 1 || 4350606 || 0.23
|-
| 47 || Alabama || 1 || 4802982 || 0.21
|-
| 48 || Tennessee || 1 || 6375431 || 0.16
|-
| 49 || Hawaii || 0 || 1366862 || 0
|-
| 50 || Wyoming || 0 || 568300 || 0
|-
| 51 || Mississippi || 0 || 2978240 || 0
|-
|}

== See Also ==
* [[Bicycle Organization Organization Project]]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_cooperative "Bicycle cooperative" Wikipedia article]
* [http://www.bikecollectives.org/component/option,com_sobi2/sobi2Task,search/Itemid,51/ Bike Collective Network Directory]
* [http://www.ibike.org/encouragement/freebike/directory/index.htm Community Bike Programs: Directory]

[[Category:Community Bicycle Organizations| ]]

File:Tirecrosssection.gif

2013-10-19T14:26:09Z

Shiseiji: Drawing courtesy of Phil Woolsey of the Missing Link Bicycle Cooperative at the UC Berkeley campus. Permission granted October 18, 2013 http://www.missinglink.org

Drawing courtesy of Phil Woolsey of the Missing Link Bicycle Cooperative at the UC Berkeley campus. Permission granted October 18, 2013
http://www.missinglink.org

File:Gearcablehousing.gif

2013-10-19T14:25:09Z

Shiseiji: Drawing courtesy of Phil Woolsey of the Missing Link Bicycle Cooperative at the UC Berkeley campus Permission granted October 18, 2013 http://www.missinglink.org

Drawing courtesy of Phil Woolsey of the Missing Link Bicycle Cooperative at the UC Berkeley campus Permission granted October 18, 2013
http://www.missinglink.org

File:Anatomy.pdf

2013-10-17T16:14:14Z

Shiseiji: Line drawing of bicycle anatomy.

Line drawing of bicycle anatomy.

File:Cranks and bb.pdf

2013-10-17T16:11:07Z

Shiseiji: uploaded a new version of "File:Cranks and bb.pdf": Line drawing of bicycle crank and bottom bracket parts.

Line drawing of bicycle crank and bottom bracket parts.

File:Cranks and bb.pdf

2013-10-17T16:10:44Z

Shiseiji: Line drawing of bicycle crank and bottom bracket parts.

Line drawing of bicycle crank and bottom bracket parts.

User talk:Jonathan

2013-10-09T16:26:01Z

Shiseiji: /* Main Page Topic Addition */ new section

== Admin ==

I'd love to be. Thanks! - [[User:Quill|Quill]] 16:24, 22 November 2010 (UTC)

==Spammer==
Could please you block [[User:Imywejyh]] or tell me how to? Thanks. - [[User:Quill|Quill]] 16:45, 24 November 2010 (UTC)

:Done. --[[User:Jonathan|Jonathan]] 19:35, 24 November 2010 (UTC)

== Require Email Confirmation ==

Could we turn on required email confirmation for new accounts? Might slow down the recent wave of spammers. See: http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:$wgEmailConfirmToEdit

:Done --[[User:Jonathan|Jonathan]] 22:03, 13 February 2011 (PST)

== Main Page ==

So...it would seem that the main page has been hijacked a bit. I'm not familiar with making changes, but wanted to make sure you were aware of it.

:All fixed, until the next wave. --[[User:Jonathan|Jonathan]] 22:05, 13 February 2011 (PST)

== User:Quill ==

Just noticed that [[User:Quill|Quill]] is a Bureaucrat but not an Administrator, so they lack all the Administrator privileges given here: [[Special:ListGroupRights]]. Was this by accident? It seemed like he/she was interested in helping with the spam, and they've been categorizing like crazy as well. --[[User:Dustingram|Dustingram]] 16:36, 14 February 2011 (PST)

:Accident fixed. --[[User:Jonathan|Jonathan]] 22:21, 20 February 2011 (PST)

::Thanks! I don't think we're going to be able to keep up with the spam manually though. They are clearly using bots to post. Can we find some kind of bot to remove it? - [[User:Quill|Quill]] 09:18, 8 March 2011 (PST)

:::I didn't either. If you have any ideas, I am game. --[[User:Jonathan|Jonathan]] 09:41, 9 March 2011 (PST)

== Anonymous Edits ==

Getting a lot of spammy edits from IPs (users without accounts). Might be a good idea to require account creation in order to edit (I believe it was this way before?) --[[User:Dustingram|Dustingram]] 16:54, 7 August 2011 (PDT)

$wgGroupPermissions['*']['edit'] = false;

==File Formats==
Hi Jonathan,

As you can see on my [[User talk:Quill|talk page]], [[User:Sopotito]] has asked about changing upload settings to allow for .doc and .odt files. I'm not sure what you think about that, or how to change it - could you talk to Tito directly? Thanks! - [[User:Quill|Quill]] 07:08, 12 December 2011 (PST)

== Spam fighting ==

http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Combating_spam

Are any of the options listed here possible? - [[User:Quill|Quill]] 06:18, 9 July 2012 (PDT)

:We've already implemented a few of these and have definitely come a long way -- I know this because the handful of spam we get a day seems like nothing compared to the massive amount there was before. That said, I think it would be reasonable to take another step and use an [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Combating_spam#An_example:_importing_stopforumspam.27s_IP_list IP blacklist] (Also, if I remember correctly, [[User:Jonathan|Jonathan]] is no longer the person to talk to about these types of modifications to the wiki... but I'm not sure who is.)

[[User:jeremygrandstaff|Jeremy Grandstaff]] of the Alliance for Walking and Biking is setup to help. --[[User:Jonathan|Jonathan]] 12:09, 13 August 2012 (PDT)

== Main Page Topic Addition ==

Thanks for taking on the burden of maintaining this site!

I suggest "Maintenance Classes" for patrons be added to Common Activities as it is different than "Mechanical Training." I've posted a draft copy of the VéloCity Bicycle Cooperative basic maintenance class under "Teaching Resources" but that is a sub-topic to "Earn-a-bike." Maintenance Classes for the general public are often offered by coops and on the list there has been some discussion of volunteer mechanical training. To me, a volunteer should know at a minimum what is taught in a basic maintenance class so they do tie together.

I think a page for "Volunteer Training" might have value too. And "Mechanical Training" to "Open Source Mechanic Training"

Thanks for considering my suggestions.

Ron

VeloCity Basic Class (draft)

2013-10-09T15:56:37Z

Shiseiji: Created page with "Basic Class =Turning Nuts and Bolts – Right Hand Thread= = Basic Tools = == Basic Trail/Road Tool Kit== == Home Tool Kit== = Bicycle Anatomy Overview = = Bike Types by Functio..."

Teaching Resources

2013-10-09T15:11:59Z

Shiseiji: Syllabuses used by bicycle cooperatives.

Many community bicycle collective do some kind of '''teaching''', so if your organization is thinking of starting up a youth program, an "[[Earn-a-Bike]]" program, or some other instructional program, you don't need to re-invent the wheel.

==Teacher Training Manuals==
Browse through these various manuals to see which curriculum works best for you:

===Earn-A-Bike Programs===
* [[Community Cycles Youth Earn-A-Bike Curriculum|Wiki version of Youth Earn-A-Bike Curriculum]] (Wiki) by [[Community Cycles]]
**[[:File:Community Cycles Youth Earn A Bike Curriculum .pdf|Youth Earn-A-Bike Curriculum]] (PDF) by Community Cycles
**[[:File:Manual en espanol.pdf|"Bicicletas para Jóvenes" Plan de Estudios]] (PDF - Español) por Community Cycles
* [[SLCBC Earn-a-Bike Curriculum|Earn-a-Bike Curriculum]] (Wiki) by [[SLCBC]]
* [[:File:Bikes not bombs-EAB instructor manual.pdf|Instructor's Manual for the Earn-A-Bike Program]] (PDF) by [[Bikes Not Bombs]]
** [[Bikes Not Bombs Earn-A-Bike Instructor Training Manual|Earn-A-Bike Instructor Training Manual]] (Wiki - incomplete) by Bikes Not Bombs
* [[:File:NBW Earn-a-bike Activity Book.pdf|Earn-a-bike Activity Book]] (PDF) by [[Neighborhood Bike Works]]

===Other Manuals===
* [[:File:Overton Babiak TA-Tools for Life.pdf|Tools For Life: A Start-up Guide for Youth Recycling and Bicycling Programs]] (PDF) by George Roman Babiak, Karen Overton and Transportation Alternatives
* [http://www.recycleabicycle.org/sites/default/files/onerevolution.pdf One Revolution at a Time: A Guide to Starting and Running Youth Bike Ride Clubs] (PDF) by Karen Overton, Audrey Warren and [[Recycle-A-Bicycle]]
* [[English Language Immersion Program]] (Wiki - incomplete) by Ignacio Rivera de Rosales with [[BICAS]]

===Specific topics for instructors===
*[[Picking Bikes and Bike Anatomy]]
*[[Bearing Systems Teacher Training]]
*[[Tires and Tubes Teacher Training]]

== Teaching Aids ==

Reusable Repair Checklist [[File:Community-cycles-repair-checklist.pdf]]

[[Illustrations and Graphics]] are great visual aids for any class or program and can make simply hanging around a community shop a learning experience.

[[Category:Teaching Resources| Teaching Resources]]

==Maintenance Class Syllabuses==

*[[VeloCity Basic Class (draft)]]

Derailer Adjustment

2011-05-26T18:24:29Z

Shiseiji:

A variety of things may cause the dérailleur to skip. Take the following measures in the order they are listed. Test the dérailleur before taking the next step, which may subsequently become unnecessary.

* Ensure the dérailleur and chain are clean.
* Ensure the dérailleur moves freely.
* Check the chain for wear. The problem may be a stretched chain, which would cause skipping as the chain link spacing would no longer match that of the chain ring or cog spacing. [[Replace the chain]]
* Ensure there isn't a tight/frozen chain link.
* When the dérailleur is at the highest gear setting (smallest cog) ensure the cable is loose enough to deflect but not so loose that moving the shifter doesn’t do anything. Adjust if necessary. Sometimes "loose" isn't loose enough.
* Increase the spring tension in the dérailleur. You may need to ask for help to do this. There should be a screw on the dérailleur designed for this purpose.
* Check dérailleur hanger for proper alignment vertical and horizontal. A bent dérailleur hanger can change the alignment resuling in the dérailleur not moving enough for an index shift to complete. You may need to ask for help to do this.
* Replace the dérailleur.
* Replace the chain ring or cogs. This should only be necessary if the chain rings or cogs are "u'ed out." Being u'ed out means that they are worn in a way that makes shifting uneasy. This usually looks like more like the silhouette of a Nike swoosh (in the sense of the Goddess of victory, not the shoe company, of course) than an actual "u." The wear will be toward the pull of the chain.

== If you cannot go into your highest or lowest cog or chain ring ==

This is most likely a result of an improperly adjusted [[limit screw]]. Determine the appropriate scew either by its label (H = High gear/smallest cog or L = low gear/biggest cog), a visual check to see which screw is touching the lever arm, or by watching the derailer as you play with the screws to see which one moves it (be sure to readjust the opposite screw when you're finished with this approach). Once you have determined the appropriate screw, loosen it until it allows the chain to move onto the highest or lowest cog or chain ring. Run the bike through a couple of rounds of shifting to ensure that the chain will not fall off the cog or cassette now that the limit screw is loosened.

== If your chain falls off when you try to go into your highest or lowest cog or chain ring ==

The most likely cause of this problem is a [[limit screw]] that is '''too loose'''.

Determine the appropriate screw either by its label (H or L for High or Low), a visual check to see which screw is touching the lever arm, or by watching the derailer as you play with the screws to see which one moves it (be sure to readjust the opposite screw when you're finished with this approach).

Once you have determined the appropriate screw, tighten it until the derailer moves directly above the cog or chain ring on which you wish the chain to ride. Run the bike through a couple of rounds of shifting to ensure that the chain will easily slide into the appropriate cog or chain ring without falling off.

[[Category:How-to]]